By Daniel McGuire for Funworld - International Association of Amusement Parks & Attractions
A member of the scouting crew for “Adventureland” gives a first-hand report of filming a movie at an amusement park
Mary Lou Rosemeyer took the call from Hollywood. As head of PR at Kennywood, she had been approached by movie people over the years, but she’d rarely signed the dotted line. “We’re a family business and our customers are families,” she says. But the producer, Declan Baldwin, was persistent and genial. Rosemeyer agreed to a meeting, and within a few weeks it was a done deal. In mid-September, a Miramax motion picture entitled “Adventureland” would rent Kennywood and shoot for five weeks. At the end of those weeks, Rosemeyer was shaking her head in laughter and disbelief. “Knowing what I know now, I’d probably do a lot of things differently,” she says.
Hollywood’s invasion of Kennywood came about due to a mix of circumstances—aesthetic, logistical, and financial. The actual Adventureland park—where writer/director Greg Mottola worked in the ’80s, was no longer viable: “It is a different place now,” he says. “It’s more modern and corporate.” Many other parks were rejected for same reason—no amount of alteration could make them pass for 1987. Kennywood, with the right mix of modern and vintage rides, had the right look. What made the decision a no-brainer, from the perspective of the producers, was that it resided in Pennsylvania—a state that offers a 25 percent tax rebate on production costs spent in its borders.
The Crew Descends
When a big-budget feature film goes on location, it resembles an army. Its massive footprint requires sets, staging areas, additional power, food, and shelter for 150 extras and 100 crewmembers. As is the case with a military maneuver, the scouts arrive first, making decisions on where five to 10 semi-tractor trailers of lighting equipment, catering vehicles, “star” trailers, and “honey wagons” (toilets) will be located.
The point of no return was signaled by the one-day appearance of The Suits, a day Rosemeyer remembers well. “When we were told there would be a tech scout, we assumed a couple of people. We were surprised, and caught unaware, when the actual number was 30.” The studio executives arrived wearing sunglasses and black power suits, talking on cell phones, text-messaging on their Blackberries, wading ashore like General Douglas McArthur in the Philippines. With their enthusiastic approval of Kennywood as a location, it was full speed ahead.
The biggest challenge, logistically, was the fact that Kennywood was still operating. Following the summer season, Kennywood flips into Frightnight weekend mode, when the park takes on a Halloween theme. Not only would the park be unavailable to shoot on Fridays and weekends, but the park would need to transform from 1980s Adventureland to Frightnight on Friday mornings, and back to the vintage park set on Monday. Adventureland sets would need to be secured and draped with black fabric and fake cobwebs to protect and mask them from thousands of weekend visitors. Frightnight required thousands of red and green light bulbs to create a spooky mood. Those colors were all wrong for Adventureland’s summer feel, and had to be swapped on Fridays and Mondays by Kennywood electricians working overtime. The first week was hard on everyone, “We were doing so much work for the movie that we couldn’t do our own work”, said Carlos Velez, a Kennywood electrician.
The main selling point of working at Kennywood was that many areas needed only a little alteration. The “Jackrabbit,” the “Thunderbolt,” and “The Music Express” rides were timeless, and only needed to be “distressed”. The park of Mottola’s memory, according to Matt Mund, the Art Director, was “ratty and run-down – a couple of acres of asphalt beside a highway. We had to shrink everything down, show only parts, and make sure the camera didn’t see Kennywood’s lush landscaping,” Mund said. The exterior of the “Playdium”—home of pinball and video games—also had the right “retro” look. The interior, however, was another matter. The most popular video games were both anachronistic and included verboten trademarked logos and had to be swapped out with vintage games such as “Asteroids.” To highlight how much times have changed, one of the young actresses had never seen a pinball machine!
All Hands on Deck
Nearly every shot in the film required operation of rides. Coordinating the operation of the rides required more planning than the filmmakers expected. In addition to the need for operators, the rides had to have a time-consuming inspection by Kennywood’s maintenance department. It took a week of frustration and confusion before the filmmakers finally grasped that a roller-coaster doesn’t turn on with the flip of a switch. By then, maintenance crews had decided to inspect all the rides within view of camera, and make sure that there were enough operators to run all the rides simultaneously, should inspiration strike the filmmakers. This was fine with the production crew until the bill came in for all the additional man-hours. Production quickly regrouped and made an effort to better communicate with the overstretched maintenance department. Kennywood staff had their own learning curve. A single shot might involve a hundred period-dressed extras, two moving cameras, actors wrestling in choreographed brawl, and the West Mifflin Police Department holding up traffic on nearby Route 837. From the sidelines, it was hard to see the purpose for all the electricians, designers, make-up artists, soundmen, and camera assistants, and what, if any, their effect was upon the light hitting a layer of chemical emulsion on a 35mm piece of celluloid. This painstaking process is usually tiresome to seasoned filmmakers—but was bewildering and wasteful in the eyes of Kennywood staff. “Why can’t they just make a decision?” said one Kennywood department head, who asked to remain nameless.
Another cultural difference revolved around safety issues. The film crew wasn’t ready for the high bar set for safety at Kennywood. If a grip left a canister of helium standing alone for just a minute, (helium is used in the film industry for certain lighting fixtures) one of the Kennywood safety supervisors would immediately point out that OSHA rules required it to be tied off to a railing. Despite a production with elements that included children, water, high-voltage electricity, heights, power tools, and heavy machinery, the worst accident was a twisted ankle. By the end of the shoot, the two crews were getting along well. The filmmakers were impressed with the professionalism exhibited by Kennywood’s maintenance and rides crews, in particular Carlos Velez, the electrician, who not only knew the intricacies of every ride, but also volunteered to wear a kangaroo suit for the sake of cinema history. In turn, the Kennywood staff was surprised by the work ethic of the film crew, whose days typically ran 16 hours. “Their lighting guys are really fast. They know how to put lights up fast, and then knock’em down quickly”, said Velez. And as much as everyone tried to remain nonchalant, let’s not kid ourselves—it can be a lot of fun to be on a movie set, surrounded by stars like Ryan Reynolds and Margarita Levieva. Many of the Games and Rides staff ending up in scenes with the stars of the film—ad-libbing with the actors like Saturday Night Live’s Bill Hader, and taking direction from Mottola. “It was a real nice change of pace from the routine,” said Keith Humbel, a rides supervisor who, along with many other on the staff, got a speaking role in a parody “Adventureland Employee Training Film” which will be part of the Adventureland DVD.
It won’t be clear until the film is released—tentatively in the summer of 2008—if allowing Adventureland into Kennywood was a smart business decision. Kennywood’s PR department plans to “piggyback” on some of the movie publicity and perhaps draw new crowds to Kennywood. The general feeling at Kennywood is that regardless of dollars and cents, there were some intangible morale benefits. “Having them here pushed some of us to look outside the box,” says Jeff Filicko. One example might be the “Grandprix” bumper-car ride, which for decades prior to the arrival of the film crew was a dark, cinderblock cave with pallid fluorescent lights. Adventureland’s art director transformed the ride with a few colorful drapes and cheap lights. Marie Ruby, head of games at Kennywood, liked the effect so much that she decided to let them stay. “Overall, it was a good experience,” said Jerome Gibas, the GM at Kennywood. “Going into any new adventure there are a lot of uncertainties, and we had to learn along the way. The movie people didn’t know what goes on at the park, and we didn’t know their world. But we came out respectful of each other. I’d ask a lot more questions if I could do it again, but I don’t have a problem doing this again.” Gibas added. “Hopefully, we’ll grab some PR out of this. When the movie comes out, Kennywood’s name will keep coming up, and that will put a message in people’s heads, and they’ll say: ‘I haven’t been there in a while, let’s go back…’”
Walt Disney realized long ago that the movie industry and the attractions industry would have many similarities. They both offer a ticket buyer an experience that takes them out of ordinary existence and puts them in a world of bright lights, color, and magic. To pull this off, both general managers and directors need to coordinate business people, skilled technicians, and artists so that scaffolding is there to support a fantasy. For a few weeks in September, Kennywood and Hollywood had a tempestuous summer affair. This July, we’ll get a glimpse of the results.
SIDEBAR TEN THINGS TO DO IF YOU ARE HAVING A FILM SHOT AT YOUR PARK
Call a meeting between the park’s department heads and the film production’s department heads. These people need to know their counterparts, and have each other’s phone numbers.
Create ID lanyards for crewmembers. Require they be worn at all times.
Keep your maintenance and safety crew on hand at all times. An accident at your park will reflect badly on your park, and the amusements industry, not on the film.
Review safety standards. Parks are governed by OSHA safety standards. Film crews follow their union regulations. Be sure that the film crew follows your rules, not just their own.
Negotiate a hefty legal rider to ensure your park is legally protected.
Educate yourself on a film production’s chain of command, and communicate issues to the appropriate department head. For example, if you see an electrician violating a safety rule, you should talk to the supervisor, the gaffer.
Assign a knowledgeable park representative to the production. This person should be on set to field questions on matters pertaining to safety, ride operation, and the feasibility of altering park property.
Work out, well in advance, a system to bill production for damages, materials, and services rendered.
Take photos of key locations prior to arrival of the film production. If there are any damages to park property, you will want to back up claims with photographic proof.
Read the script. If there is something you don’t like, the director may be willing to make a change or tone it down.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Friday, November 2, 2007
Something Fishy By Daniel McGuire
Outquote: When Mark Erdmann found a dinosaur, he tried to do the right thing. Big mistake.
We've all heard stories of people finding a rare antique at a rural tag sale somewhere. Maybe it's an old comic book, or a smoke-stained oil painting, or a beaten-up end table that a sharp-eyed city slicker picks up for a quarter and ends up auctioning off for millions at Sotheby's because the item in question is an Action Comics number one (first appearance of Superman), a minor Whistler, or a Hepplewhite hiding under a coat of paint. Let's call this urban legend "The Treasure in the Back Yard That Made Some Lucky Bastard Rich."
The corollary to this tale is the even more common "The Treasure in the Back Yard That I Stupidly Didn't Buy," which features the raconteur as the protagonist. In this variation, a person recognizes A Rare and Valuable Item but for one reason or another misses the opportunity. Maybe he's short a minimal sum of money, unable to fit the item in his car trunk, or is talked out of it by the dubious spouse who refuses to Spend One Penny on something so Obviously Worthless.
We can all identify with these urban legends. After all, most of us did not buy Microsoft stock back in the early '80s when we started hearing about those strange new things called personal computers. And then there is one last variation: the dark cautionary fable of "The Good and Innocent Person Who Finds the Rare and Valuable Item and is Taken Advantage of and Destroyed Utterly by the Forces of Greed, Avarice and Capitalism." John Steinbeck's "The Pearl" fits this scenario, as does David Mamet's play "The Water Engine," in which the brilliant young inventor of a water-fueled engine is killed by Detroit and the oil companies.
Well, this is one of those stories. All three, in fact.
Mark Erdmann and Arnaz Mehta were on their honeymoon. They'd had an idyllic wedding in Bali and were sightseeing with their friends John and Janel Intihar in Manado, North Sulawesi. Mark, a marine biologist, was going to be spending the next two years on the nearby island of Bunaken developing a coral reef preservation project. They decided to visit a real Indonesian fish market because Mark wanted to show his guests the astonishing bio-diversity to be found in Indonesian waters, which have the widest array of species anywhere in the world, making noted scuba destinations like the Maldives look like puddles in comparison.
Arnaz saw the strange fish first. A local fisherman was wheeling the 30 kilo monster past in a red wagon. "It caught my eye and I thought maybe it was a grouper. But it had these strange, reflective eyes and fleshy long fins. So I called Mark over and said, `Take a look at this fish.'"
Mark Erdmann recognized the fish as a coelacanth, and quickly began to explain to the other couple why the fish was important: its genetic material had not changed in more than 300 million years, making it renowned among fish experts as a "living fossil" whose existence offered a rare glimpse into the ancient world.
Meanwhile, Arnaz was talking to the fisherman, who seemed none to happy to be the center of attention. A crowd had gathered, pushing and jostling. "I asked him, 'Where did you get this fish?' and he just waved his hand to the ocean. 'Out there,' he said. 'How deep was it?' 'At the bottom of the sea.' 'Do you catch them often?' 'Rarely.'"
Erdmann had a dilemma. He knew immediately that he was looking at an important fish, but he didn't know how important. He wasn't an ichthyologist; he was a specialist in crustaceans, specifically stomatopods. It was baking hot that day and the fisherman was getting impatient with all the questions. The fisherman wanted to get a good price for the fish before it started to smell even worse.
And Erdmann wasn't sure it was a big find. He'd had experiences like this in the past and been burned, when he found what to him appeared to be a unique species and through great effort and expense brought it all the way back to the Smithsonian, only to be told that it wasn't important at all. And it wasn't on the itinerary to buy a huge, stinking fish and spend the rest of the day looking for a deep freeze, particularly since his guests were leaving later that day. "Ah, let's just leave the guy alone." Mark said, finally.
After John Intihar took a few pictures Mark stepped aside. The fisherman gratefully escaped, immediately selling the coelacanth to a fish trader. The honeymoon continued in spite of nagging worries in the back of Erdmann's mind. A few days later they were on a plane back to the U.S. At one point, Erdmann turned to Arnaz and said: "You know what? I have a feeling that it was a stupid thing not to buy that fish."
A Fish Stuck in Time
Why is the coelacanth important? To answer that question one must go back 1938, when the first coelacanth was discovered off the coast of South Africa. The fish was described as a "living fossil," a term coined by Darwin himself, who had postulated in the 1800s that many ancient species would probably be found at the bottom of the sea. In the 1930s, the theory of evolution was still quite controversial, and anything that buttressed Darwin's ideas was bound to attract media attention.
The coelacanth's existence did seem to confirm elements of the theory. The coelacanth was a common prehistoric fish whose fossil remains have been found all over the world. The earliest fossil evidence dates back more than 300 million years. The coelacanth's oddly articulated fins - which resemble the akimbo arms and legs of alligators in motion - indicate an evolutionary process that would eventually bring them out of the water, transforming them over millions of years into the giant lizards of much later Jurassic era. While the fossil evidence of the coelacanth was indisputable, it was hoped that examination of a living fish's internal organs could give insight into the biology of the ancient world. Unfortunately, the first coelacanth's inner organs were discarded, and the scientific community had to wait another 14 years before another was caught.
The second coelacanth was caught in French waters near the Comoro Islands off Madagascar. The early examination of this complete specimen's anatomy sparked great interest among the scientific community. The coelacanth was discovered to be the only living animal to have a functional intracranial joint - a complete division running through the braincase, separating the nasal organs and eye from the ear and brain. Of even more interest were its curious paired fins that moved in a coordinated fashion the same way humans move their arms and legs. Further giving credence to the theory of evolution were the coelacanth's ears, which appeared to be made for hearing in the air.
But the circumstances of the second coelacanth's capture and expatriation - the coelacanth's original discoverer, J.L.B. Smith, managed to spirit the fish away from the French authorities - incensed the French scientific community. Thereafter, no one but French scientists were given the right to examine coelacanths. Those few specimen that were placed in foreign scientific institutions were donated under the stipulation that they were not to be dissected nor their tissue samples examined. J.L.B. Smith was never allowed to examine another specimen.
This attitude of the French scientific community has engendered decades of resentment from foreign ichthyologists. The French monopoly over the coelacanth became a very serious issue for some non-French fish experts, whose careers came to depend on the vagaries of academic politics and the largesse of the French scientific institutes presiding over the 200 or so dead coelacanths that have been dragged out of the waters near Comoro over the past 60 years. Erdmann knew nothing about the politics of the coelacanth. His second mistake.
The Search Begins
Four days after spotting the coelacanth in the market, Erdmann was back at the University of California at Berkeley. The first thing he did was pay a visit his department head, Dr. Roy Caldwell, to ask him if a coelacanth had ever been found outside the western Indian Ocean.
"No, of course not. Why?" Caldwell replied. Erdmann shakes his head on recounting this moment, and quotes cultural icon Homer Simpson to indicate the pain and remorse associated with a major blunder: "Doe'uh!" Caldwell lobbied to get the word out, but Mark disagreed. "That won't help the situation and I'll just look stupid. We'll go back and get another one, and put some conservation measures in place to protect the rest," he said. They would contact a select group of coelacanth experts for advice after double checking the photos from the fish market.
But it was too late. John Intihar had already put the photos up on a website he had created called "Mark and Arnaz's Honeymoon Website." The phone was soon ringing off the hook with calls from flabbergasted ichthyologists. Intihar pulled the site quickly, after being warned that North Sulawesi was in danger of being overrun by bounty hunters. While the removal of the web site piqued the curiosity of many, others, like the eminent coelacanth expert Eugene Balon, immediately and publicly declared the find a "honeymoon hoax."
Mark and Arnaz returned to Sulawesi to spend the next two years working on a coral reef preservation program. But their first stop was the Manado fish market, where the old man with the red wagon was nowhere to be found. The next step was to get reprints of the coelacanth picture and distribute them around the market with an offer of a Rp.200,000 reward. "Most of the fishermen had absolutely no idea what it was. Or they would say, `I know what that is, it's a kabos laut - an oceanic mudskipper! I can get you hundreds of them!'"
More months passed. Erdmann decided to search beyond the fish market. He started to tour some of the outer islands, talking to local fisherman and leaving behind the photograph with these words printed on the back:
"Rp. 200,000 per tail, maximum three fish If you catch one, please bring it quickly and directly to Bunaken and look for Dr. Mark Erdmann in Pangalisang Beach. Please bring it immediately, before it starts to bad."
Erdmann started close to home, on the island of Bunaken. He mostly got blank stares, though a few fisherman saw the photo and referred to the fish as an ikan sede. These fisherman were old timers who utilized traditional hand-lining methods, fishing from boats almost identical to the traditional Comoran craft. The fact that the fish was typically found at a depth of more than 100 meters, near coral walls, was also similar to the Comoro conditions. The fishermen got very excited and said it wouldn't be long before they would bring one to Erdmann and collect the reward.
Erdmann was encouraged, but he decided not to leave it at that. In the ensuing weeks he headed to the next island, Pulau Nain, where shark net fisherman told him that the fish didn't look like anything they had ever seen. "You've never seen an ikan sede?" Erdmann asked. "Oh, sure we have. Catch them quite often. But that isn't an ikan sede," replied the fishermen.
Miscommunication, false leads, and confusion reigned. "It was getting depressing. We were starting to wonder if the first fish was just a fluke. And the people in the scientific community who were in on the secret were saying that the first fish was probably caught in the Comoros by a Japanese trawler who then dumped it in Manado when they realized they had a CITES protected fish," Erdmann recalls. Still, Erdmann continued to follow up leads and hand out the flyers. By the second week of March, 1998, almost seven months had passed since the fateful day in the Manado fish market. Mark and Arnaz took a trip to the next-door island of Manado Tua. While they took a hike up the volcanic slope their cook went to canvas the local fishermen. She was jumping up and down with excitement when Mark and Arnaz descended.
They were introduced to Om Lameh, a 56-year-old fisherman who spoke with authority. No, it wasn't an ikan sede, it was an ikan raja laut - the "King of the Sea." He caught two or three a year. He then introduced them to another gill-net fisherman named Maxon Haniko, who was also very familiar with the fish. Moments later, an familiar-looking old man appeared - Maxon's father. Erdmann began to recount, for the umpteenth time, the story of the discovery at the Manado fish market. The old man perked up quickly and cut him off. "That was me!" he exclaimed.
That particular fish, it turned out, had been caught by Maxon, who gave it to his father to sell. The old man laughingly recalled selling the fish to a fish trader, who immediately sold it an ethnic Chinese. The old man was amused because the Chinese buyer thought the fish was a grouper. He explained that the ikan raja laut had a reputation for causing diarrhea. "He probably spent the next week shitting oil," the old man laughed.
Erdmann raised the reward to 600,000, thinking that the amount was enough to get the fishermen excited but not enough to create a stampede of outsiders hoping to make a quick buck. He assumed that the Manado Tua crews would be able to catch a coelacanth fairly quickly. He was wrong. In the months that followed riots erupted across Indonesia, the economy collapsed, and President Soeharto resigned, but still no ikan raja laut. He did further research on the mysterious ikan sede and discovered that it was the relatively rare oil fish Ruvettus pretiosus. It looked nothing at all like the coelacanth, but it was notable as an indicator fish - meaning that it was often found along with the coelacanth in deep waters off Comoro.
Lightning Strikes Twice
On July 30, 1998, Mark and Arnaz were to take a trip to the city. Their boatman, Said, was just a bit late, and docked with more than the usual number of locals aboard. Said quickly bounded up the stairs from the dock to the Erdmann's porch, then assumed a posture of casual nonchalance, leaning languorously against the railing. Moments passed. "What is it?" Erdmann asked. Said tipped his head towards the dock. "I've got a raja laut in my boat," he said, as his usual deadpan expression broke into an ear-to-ear grin.
Mark and Arnaz raced down the stairs to the beach, where Om Lameh and his son Maxon were waiting. Maxon was holding a line, to which was tethered an obviously large fish, wallowing ponderously in the shallow waters. Yes, it was definitely a coelacanth. No doubt at all. And it was still alive - barely. "These fish are pretty tough, but this one had been in a net all night long, bleeding from a cut on the dorsal fin. Then they had it sitting on a deck for over an hour. It was by no means a happy fish. But here it was, after ten months of waiting."
The coelacanth kept rolling over on its back. Mark asked Said and Om Lameh to hold the fish for a moment and pose for a picture, and they did so, their faces breaking into wide smiles. Mark and Arnaz then suited up with their diving gear and underwater cameras and took the coelacanth out to the reef flat, where they photographed the fish underwater. Arnaz was worried that the bleeding fish might attract sharks, but Mark pushed on, taking the fish further out where the visibility in the water was better.
The coelacanth seemed to respond well to the change. Despite being tethered, it started to skull the water slowly with its fins. For the next 45 minutes, Arnaz and Mark swam alongside the fish, taking pictures all the while. The coelacanth didn't try to struggle or escape. It was a rapturous time. "I was mesmerized by the way its fins were moving," Arnaz recalled. "It was like a Balinese dancer. Just extremely graceful, with the fins all simultaneously moving in different directions. Like a slow, rhythmic dance."
"It had this gold flecking, these brilliant gold sparkles all over its body, which was not something we'd ever read about," Mark recalls. "It made us think more and more that this could be a new species, which is something that we had been wondering about since we had showed the snapshot photos around to the experts 10 months before."
"It was a much different experience than the first time, seeing a dead fish in the market," Mark explains. "This one was alive. And it is just a neat fish, a big, majestic fish with big, green, luminescent eyes. It was kind of otherworldly. It IS otherworldly. It is not from our realm of experience. It is a deep-sea sea monster. And you get that feeling when you get in the water and swim with one - not that too many other people ever will."
Mark realized time was running out for the King of the Sea, so he snapped out of his reverie and began to think like a scientist again. "My mind was racing with all the things we had to do, because there is a lot of sampling to be done." The film was finished, so Mark grabbed his dissecting kit, alcohol, sampling vials, and a container of liquid nitrogen. They lifted the huge fish up and placed it in a cooler box at the bottom of the boat. The coelacanth flapped its fins and gulped the air helplessly.
"I had this bad feeling - kurang enak is what the Indonesians would say. The fish was going to die, there was no doubt about that. There wasn't even a hope of releasing it and letting it go, even if we wanted to. But it took its time dying, and that was a bit hard to watch. Its big eyes would go back and forth, and look at me, then it would flop a fin a bit. It was sad."
"It had a kind of dignity. It was just sad that it had to be sacrificed," Arnaz recalls.
During the half-hour trip back to Manado the coelacanth was alive. But just as the boat moved in to dock at the harbor, the coelacanth's large luminous eyes dimmed and clouded. Mark, Arnaz, and the fishermen did not speak for a long time. The King of the Sea was gone.
Vipers
Mark quickly took tissue samples of the fish's heart, gills and liver and stored them in liquid nitrogen. Then he carefully packed the fish in a Styrofoam box which he stored in his landlady's freezer. With Roy Caldwell, and M. Kasim Moosa from the Indonesian Institute of Sciences, Erdmann began the process of writing a paper for the journal Nature, which appeared two months later.
Erdmann's discovery, now irrefutable, caused a predictable stir. "Second Home of the Fish from the Dinosaur Age Found," read The New York Times headline. The story also made CNN, BBC, ABC and FOX, with special emphasis on the "Storybook Honeymoon Adventure" angle. The Dinofish.com website received a record number of hits. But the effect on the rarefied world of coelacanth research was shattering - those who had earlier declared the find a hoax now had to eat their words, while certain others claimed to have been in on the secret the entire time. Mark was the center of a frenzy. He was invited to the National Science Foundation in the U.S. to discuss the implementation of conservation efforts, where he was roundly congratulated for his work. Before he left, however, one of the eminent scientists took him aside. "Be careful, Mark, because you've just stepped in a nest of vipers."
Susan Jewett, a curator at the Smithsonian Institution, flew to Manado four days after the article appeared. She and Mark then accompanied the now-frozen fish to the Bogor Zoological Museum, where Indonesia's most renowned scientists were waiting. Before beginning the process of preserving the fish with formalin, which would destroy its cell structure, Erdmann and Jewett once again took tissue samples from the fish's inner organs. This would allow the Indonesians to do their own independent DNA tests. "We had a gentleman's agreement with the Scientists at LIPI [The Indonesian Institute of Sciences]. I gave them the last set of tissue samples, I donated it, because it was part of Indonesia's heritage. I said, 'Store these well, because they are incredibly valuable. When we've done our analysis in the U.S. we'll send you the primers and you can replicate and confirm the process in Indonesia. We can then show it to be a different species and bring in people, if necessary, to help write up the description, or you can do it yourself.'"
While it was certainly happy news that the coelacanth had a much larger range and population than was previously known, it had not gone unnoticed by French scientists that the coelacanth monopoly was broken. Within hours of the Nature article's publication, a French cyptozoological website was claiming that a French fishery consultant named George Serres had caught a coelacanth off the coast of Java in 1995. The claim could not be confirmed, however, because the fish was "lost" en route to the Oceanographic Institute in Jakarta. Serres claimed to have taken photographs of the fish, but those too were unavailable - all his belongings had been stolen at around the same time. By that time, Erdmann was in contact with dozens of French coelacanth specialists. He received an e-mail from one of them containing private messages that had inadvertently escaped deletion. One of these messages, from a French scientist, read: "If we could find someone who could verify that the specimen prepared by Monsieur Serres was still at the Institute in Jakarta, it would be a pretty counter-scoop with a nice nationalistic flavor."
Meanwhile, unlikely rumors were already circulating that Jewett was planning to smuggle the meter-long fish back to the United States in her suitcase. Erdmann found himself defending his motives and denying the rumors. "The first fish was always going to be Indonesia's," he explained.
After the fish had been preserved with formalin and LIPI's skilled taxidermists had posed it in a life-like position, Erdmann formally presented the specimen to the institute's museum exhibition. Back in Manado, something of a gold rush mentality took hold of the local population. People were now offering RP. 2,000,000 for a coelacanth. Om Lameh and Maxon were approached by five groups of Japanese, including a delegation from the Toba Aquarium of Tokyo who had, years before, fruitlessly spent millions in the Comoros trying to catch a living coelacanth.
By 1999, the preliminary results of the DNA testing were back from the lab. A sequencing of the DNA revealed a 4.1 percent divergence from the Comoran variety - a strong indication that the Indonesian coelacanth was in fact a new species. But Erdmann decided to wait for the results of a detailed morphological comparison before going public with such a controversial claim. When those results were available, in March of 1999, Erdmann decided to publish a paper in Nature supporting that position. But he was too late. As Erdmann's paper waited publication, a Jakarta-based catfish specialist, Laurent Pouyaud, reported the results of a Franco-Indonesian team's DNA tests in a French scientific journal. After lobbying several of the LIPI scientists and being turned down, Pouyaud had finally managed to convince one of them to part with coelacanth tissue samples to make another independent analysis. Pouyaud did not wait for independent verification and did not hesitate to declare that the Indonesian coelacanth was a new species, christening it "Latimeria menadoensis L. Pouyaud et al 1999."
Erdmann, along with many Indonesian scientists and others in the coelacanth community, was livid at this act of scientific piracy. Harsh words flew across cyber lines and in the letters pages of scientific journals. Many were outraged at what they claimed were Pouyaud's ethical and scientific lapses. He had made no reference to the discoverer of the specimen, its holotype, or its museum number, and had sought widespread publicity for the new name in the popular press before scientific publication. Nevertheless the name conformed to the International Code of Zoological Nomenclature, and so it stuck.
When a reporter brings up Pouyaud's name, Erdmann's genial smile disappears. "If I see him, I will kill him." Arnaz places a calming hand on Mark's thigh, saying "You can't say that to a reporter, honey." "But I really will kill him," Mark replies. "Pouyaud has absolutely nothing to do with this fish. But from now on, and forever, his name will be associated with it." Pouyaud responded to the controversy by saying that he had been urged to name the fish by his Indonesian colleagues. The Indonesian scientists at LIPI deny this assertion, and Pouyaud is banned from ever visiting the scientific institution in Bogor.
A few months later, Pouyaud, along with Serres and a well-known coelacanth expert Bernard Seret, submitted an article to Nature hoping to buttress Serres' claim of a Javan coelacanth. Included with the article was a "recently discovered" photo that they claimed to be of the fish caught in 1995. The editors of Nature were suspicious, and they brought the picture to Erdmann's attention.
"When I looked a the photograph I knew right away that it was the fish I caught," Erdmann said. "The coloring was identical - only the placement of the fins was slightly altered - very crudely, by the way." Serres, Pouyaud, or someone else had quite clearly falsified the picture using standard Photoshop software and a computer. The forgery was so obvious that the French Institut de Recherche pour le Developpement (IRD), for whom all three had worked, launched an investigation. Neither Serres or Pouyaud were named in the investigation; rather, the IRD launched a complaint 'against X' for forgery, a standard procedure in France when there is a criminal act committed by an unknown person.
Serres, as recently as July 2000, still maintained that the photograph was authentic, although he updated his story by claiming that the picture had been given to him by the widow of a close friend who had taken the photo. Bernard Seret, an ichthyologist at the Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle de Paris, appears to have been duped by the entire affair. He now admits that the fish in the photograph is the fish caught by Erdmann. "This is very embarrassing," he was quoted in Nature. Still, a French name will forever be associated with the Indonesian coelacanth, and the French scientific community got their "nationalistic counter-scoop."
Bunaken
Erdmann now lives on Bunaken Island in North Sulawesi with Arnaz and his 18-month-old daughter. He's working to preserve the area as much as possible from the forces that are threatening the region's bio-diversity. It won't be easy. Despite being a maritime nation, Indonesia has a minimal and under-funded navy whose ships are often less well armed than the foreign fishing boats looting Indonesian waters. Just as damaging and dangerous are local and foreign fishermen who use cyanide and bombs to catch fish. The loss of the fish isn't the biggest problem, but rather the damage done to the coral reef framework beneath, which provides a spawning and feeding habitat for hundreds of species, and which will need centuries to recover.
Erdmann has been working to get the people of Bunaken to understand the importance of preserving their coral reefs. "One of our missions is to build a pride in what they have here. Most of the villagers have no idea why it is a park. They think someone in Jakarta just put their finger down on a map. We're saying, look, this is one of the neatest areas in the world. That is why it's a national park. You should have pride in it and that is reason in itself not to blow it up."
Recently Erdmann led a field trip at Bunaken for coral reef experts from the Caribbean. "They were just astonished at the variety of corals and fish species in Indonesian waters. To give you some idea of the bio-diversity here, the Bahamas has about 80 coral species. We have 500. As for the species I work with, crustaceans, they have 7 species. At Bunaken there are over 150. So there is really no comparison between the bio-diversity here and other places in the world." That argument doesn't always work with the fish bombers, who are often nomadic fisherman with no reason to care about the waters in any one area. "What I've been saying to anyone who will listen is that you need both a carrot and stick approach. The carrot is public education campaigns, the creation of jobs in the tourist industry - even giving money to people so they won't get involved in these destructive fishing practices, and I'm for all those things. But you've got to have a stick as well. You've got to have enforcement of the laws." Erdmann's NGO has also instituted a nominal fee of five dollars which local dive companies charge each diver. The money goes to augment the police and coast guard patrols in the area.
"Some people at the NGOs say we're hurting poor people who are forced by poverty to use these bombs to catch fish, but that isn't our experience here. In fact, the fish bombers are not poor - usually they are the richest people in the area. They've got the best boats, parabolas and nice houses. But they are getting rich as they destroy the livelihood of the rest of the community."
Erdmann also tried a tactic that was unusual in the area: he hired a lawyer. "This was a case where the bombers were caught red-handed, there were witnesses, but the police let them go because the bombers are well-connected. So we got a lawyer who literally hounded the police until they arrested them again. And now they are in jail. It worked. And I was just as surprised as the bombers were."
Mark Erdmann looks back on his experience with the Indonesian coelacanth with mixed feelings. "I can't deny that the coelacanth was a big boon to my career, but it certainly isn't a major focus of my life. We did what we thought was right for the coelacanth. I went to Jakarta, I worked with the Institute of Sciences and we got legislation passed to protect the fish. There's now a group called Team Coelacanth that monitors catches. And we did a public awareness campaign. Everyone in North Sulawesi know about this fish now, they are proud of it, and it is a flagship species for the Bunaken National Park -- it has really helped put us on the map. It focused attention on the management problems here, and that's what my focus is now, trying to protect Bunaken National Park."
"On the other hand, it completely ruined my naive view of the honor and dignity of science. What we saw was just an ugly, ugly side of science. We saw piracy, all kinds of chest beating - people saying, 'It's my discovery!' Stealing tissue samples, faked photographs - it was ugly, really ugly, what I saw there. I kind of laugh at it now, but - and that is part of the reason I really don't want to be involved with the coelacanth any more."
Erdmann pauses and falls quiet for a moment "It's not like I sit around worrying about coelacanths very much. They've managed pretty well for the past 300 million years, down there in their deep lairs."
Daniel McGuire is a freelance writer and filmmaker who lives in Bali.
OUTQUOTES:
1. Erdmann knew nothing about the politics of the coelacanth. His second mistake.
2. "What we saw was just an ugly, ugly side of science."
We've all heard stories of people finding a rare antique at a rural tag sale somewhere. Maybe it's an old comic book, or a smoke-stained oil painting, or a beaten-up end table that a sharp-eyed city slicker picks up for a quarter and ends up auctioning off for millions at Sotheby's because the item in question is an Action Comics number one (first appearance of Superman), a minor Whistler, or a Hepplewhite hiding under a coat of paint. Let's call this urban legend "The Treasure in the Back Yard That Made Some Lucky Bastard Rich."
The corollary to this tale is the even more common "The Treasure in the Back Yard That I Stupidly Didn't Buy," which features the raconteur as the protagonist. In this variation, a person recognizes A Rare and Valuable Item but for one reason or another misses the opportunity. Maybe he's short a minimal sum of money, unable to fit the item in his car trunk, or is talked out of it by the dubious spouse who refuses to Spend One Penny on something so Obviously Worthless.
We can all identify with these urban legends. After all, most of us did not buy Microsoft stock back in the early '80s when we started hearing about those strange new things called personal computers. And then there is one last variation: the dark cautionary fable of "The Good and Innocent Person Who Finds the Rare and Valuable Item and is Taken Advantage of and Destroyed Utterly by the Forces of Greed, Avarice and Capitalism." John Steinbeck's "The Pearl" fits this scenario, as does David Mamet's play "The Water Engine," in which the brilliant young inventor of a water-fueled engine is killed by Detroit and the oil companies.
Well, this is one of those stories. All three, in fact.
Mark Erdmann and Arnaz Mehta were on their honeymoon. They'd had an idyllic wedding in Bali and were sightseeing with their friends John and Janel Intihar in Manado, North Sulawesi. Mark, a marine biologist, was going to be spending the next two years on the nearby island of Bunaken developing a coral reef preservation project. They decided to visit a real Indonesian fish market because Mark wanted to show his guests the astonishing bio-diversity to be found in Indonesian waters, which have the widest array of species anywhere in the world, making noted scuba destinations like the Maldives look like puddles in comparison.
Arnaz saw the strange fish first. A local fisherman was wheeling the 30 kilo monster past in a red wagon. "It caught my eye and I thought maybe it was a grouper. But it had these strange, reflective eyes and fleshy long fins. So I called Mark over and said, `Take a look at this fish.'"
Mark Erdmann recognized the fish as a coelacanth, and quickly began to explain to the other couple why the fish was important: its genetic material had not changed in more than 300 million years, making it renowned among fish experts as a "living fossil" whose existence offered a rare glimpse into the ancient world.
Meanwhile, Arnaz was talking to the fisherman, who seemed none to happy to be the center of attention. A crowd had gathered, pushing and jostling. "I asked him, 'Where did you get this fish?' and he just waved his hand to the ocean. 'Out there,' he said. 'How deep was it?' 'At the bottom of the sea.' 'Do you catch them often?' 'Rarely.'"
Erdmann had a dilemma. He knew immediately that he was looking at an important fish, but he didn't know how important. He wasn't an ichthyologist; he was a specialist in crustaceans, specifically stomatopods. It was baking hot that day and the fisherman was getting impatient with all the questions. The fisherman wanted to get a good price for the fish before it started to smell even worse.
And Erdmann wasn't sure it was a big find. He'd had experiences like this in the past and been burned, when he found what to him appeared to be a unique species and through great effort and expense brought it all the way back to the Smithsonian, only to be told that it wasn't important at all. And it wasn't on the itinerary to buy a huge, stinking fish and spend the rest of the day looking for a deep freeze, particularly since his guests were leaving later that day. "Ah, let's just leave the guy alone." Mark said, finally.
After John Intihar took a few pictures Mark stepped aside. The fisherman gratefully escaped, immediately selling the coelacanth to a fish trader. The honeymoon continued in spite of nagging worries in the back of Erdmann's mind. A few days later they were on a plane back to the U.S. At one point, Erdmann turned to Arnaz and said: "You know what? I have a feeling that it was a stupid thing not to buy that fish."
A Fish Stuck in Time
Why is the coelacanth important? To answer that question one must go back 1938, when the first coelacanth was discovered off the coast of South Africa. The fish was described as a "living fossil," a term coined by Darwin himself, who had postulated in the 1800s that many ancient species would probably be found at the bottom of the sea. In the 1930s, the theory of evolution was still quite controversial, and anything that buttressed Darwin's ideas was bound to attract media attention.
The coelacanth's existence did seem to confirm elements of the theory. The coelacanth was a common prehistoric fish whose fossil remains have been found all over the world. The earliest fossil evidence dates back more than 300 million years. The coelacanth's oddly articulated fins - which resemble the akimbo arms and legs of alligators in motion - indicate an evolutionary process that would eventually bring them out of the water, transforming them over millions of years into the giant lizards of much later Jurassic era. While the fossil evidence of the coelacanth was indisputable, it was hoped that examination of a living fish's internal organs could give insight into the biology of the ancient world. Unfortunately, the first coelacanth's inner organs were discarded, and the scientific community had to wait another 14 years before another was caught.
The second coelacanth was caught in French waters near the Comoro Islands off Madagascar. The early examination of this complete specimen's anatomy sparked great interest among the scientific community. The coelacanth was discovered to be the only living animal to have a functional intracranial joint - a complete division running through the braincase, separating the nasal organs and eye from the ear and brain. Of even more interest were its curious paired fins that moved in a coordinated fashion the same way humans move their arms and legs. Further giving credence to the theory of evolution were the coelacanth's ears, which appeared to be made for hearing in the air.
But the circumstances of the second coelacanth's capture and expatriation - the coelacanth's original discoverer, J.L.B. Smith, managed to spirit the fish away from the French authorities - incensed the French scientific community. Thereafter, no one but French scientists were given the right to examine coelacanths. Those few specimen that were placed in foreign scientific institutions were donated under the stipulation that they were not to be dissected nor their tissue samples examined. J.L.B. Smith was never allowed to examine another specimen.
This attitude of the French scientific community has engendered decades of resentment from foreign ichthyologists. The French monopoly over the coelacanth became a very serious issue for some non-French fish experts, whose careers came to depend on the vagaries of academic politics and the largesse of the French scientific institutes presiding over the 200 or so dead coelacanths that have been dragged out of the waters near Comoro over the past 60 years. Erdmann knew nothing about the politics of the coelacanth. His second mistake.
The Search Begins
Four days after spotting the coelacanth in the market, Erdmann was back at the University of California at Berkeley. The first thing he did was pay a visit his department head, Dr. Roy Caldwell, to ask him if a coelacanth had ever been found outside the western Indian Ocean.
"No, of course not. Why?" Caldwell replied. Erdmann shakes his head on recounting this moment, and quotes cultural icon Homer Simpson to indicate the pain and remorse associated with a major blunder: "Doe'uh!" Caldwell lobbied to get the word out, but Mark disagreed. "That won't help the situation and I'll just look stupid. We'll go back and get another one, and put some conservation measures in place to protect the rest," he said. They would contact a select group of coelacanth experts for advice after double checking the photos from the fish market.
But it was too late. John Intihar had already put the photos up on a website he had created called "Mark and Arnaz's Honeymoon Website." The phone was soon ringing off the hook with calls from flabbergasted ichthyologists. Intihar pulled the site quickly, after being warned that North Sulawesi was in danger of being overrun by bounty hunters. While the removal of the web site piqued the curiosity of many, others, like the eminent coelacanth expert Eugene Balon, immediately and publicly declared the find a "honeymoon hoax."
Mark and Arnaz returned to Sulawesi to spend the next two years working on a coral reef preservation program. But their first stop was the Manado fish market, where the old man with the red wagon was nowhere to be found. The next step was to get reprints of the coelacanth picture and distribute them around the market with an offer of a Rp.200,000 reward. "Most of the fishermen had absolutely no idea what it was. Or they would say, `I know what that is, it's a kabos laut - an oceanic mudskipper! I can get you hundreds of them!'"
More months passed. Erdmann decided to search beyond the fish market. He started to tour some of the outer islands, talking to local fisherman and leaving behind the photograph with these words printed on the back:
"Rp. 200,000 per tail, maximum three fish If you catch one, please bring it quickly and directly to Bunaken and look for Dr. Mark Erdmann in Pangalisang Beach. Please bring it immediately, before it starts to bad."
Erdmann started close to home, on the island of Bunaken. He mostly got blank stares, though a few fisherman saw the photo and referred to the fish as an ikan sede. These fisherman were old timers who utilized traditional hand-lining methods, fishing from boats almost identical to the traditional Comoran craft. The fact that the fish was typically found at a depth of more than 100 meters, near coral walls, was also similar to the Comoro conditions. The fishermen got very excited and said it wouldn't be long before they would bring one to Erdmann and collect the reward.
Erdmann was encouraged, but he decided not to leave it at that. In the ensuing weeks he headed to the next island, Pulau Nain, where shark net fisherman told him that the fish didn't look like anything they had ever seen. "You've never seen an ikan sede?" Erdmann asked. "Oh, sure we have. Catch them quite often. But that isn't an ikan sede," replied the fishermen.
Miscommunication, false leads, and confusion reigned. "It was getting depressing. We were starting to wonder if the first fish was just a fluke. And the people in the scientific community who were in on the secret were saying that the first fish was probably caught in the Comoros by a Japanese trawler who then dumped it in Manado when they realized they had a CITES protected fish," Erdmann recalls. Still, Erdmann continued to follow up leads and hand out the flyers. By the second week of March, 1998, almost seven months had passed since the fateful day in the Manado fish market. Mark and Arnaz took a trip to the next-door island of Manado Tua. While they took a hike up the volcanic slope their cook went to canvas the local fishermen. She was jumping up and down with excitement when Mark and Arnaz descended.
They were introduced to Om Lameh, a 56-year-old fisherman who spoke with authority. No, it wasn't an ikan sede, it was an ikan raja laut - the "King of the Sea." He caught two or three a year. He then introduced them to another gill-net fisherman named Maxon Haniko, who was also very familiar with the fish. Moments later, an familiar-looking old man appeared - Maxon's father. Erdmann began to recount, for the umpteenth time, the story of the discovery at the Manado fish market. The old man perked up quickly and cut him off. "That was me!" he exclaimed.
That particular fish, it turned out, had been caught by Maxon, who gave it to his father to sell. The old man laughingly recalled selling the fish to a fish trader, who immediately sold it an ethnic Chinese. The old man was amused because the Chinese buyer thought the fish was a grouper. He explained that the ikan raja laut had a reputation for causing diarrhea. "He probably spent the next week shitting oil," the old man laughed.
Erdmann raised the reward to 600,000, thinking that the amount was enough to get the fishermen excited but not enough to create a stampede of outsiders hoping to make a quick buck. He assumed that the Manado Tua crews would be able to catch a coelacanth fairly quickly. He was wrong. In the months that followed riots erupted across Indonesia, the economy collapsed, and President Soeharto resigned, but still no ikan raja laut. He did further research on the mysterious ikan sede and discovered that it was the relatively rare oil fish Ruvettus pretiosus. It looked nothing at all like the coelacanth, but it was notable as an indicator fish - meaning that it was often found along with the coelacanth in deep waters off Comoro.
Lightning Strikes Twice
On July 30, 1998, Mark and Arnaz were to take a trip to the city. Their boatman, Said, was just a bit late, and docked with more than the usual number of locals aboard. Said quickly bounded up the stairs from the dock to the Erdmann's porch, then assumed a posture of casual nonchalance, leaning languorously against the railing. Moments passed. "What is it?" Erdmann asked. Said tipped his head towards the dock. "I've got a raja laut in my boat," he said, as his usual deadpan expression broke into an ear-to-ear grin.
Mark and Arnaz raced down the stairs to the beach, where Om Lameh and his son Maxon were waiting. Maxon was holding a line, to which was tethered an obviously large fish, wallowing ponderously in the shallow waters. Yes, it was definitely a coelacanth. No doubt at all. And it was still alive - barely. "These fish are pretty tough, but this one had been in a net all night long, bleeding from a cut on the dorsal fin. Then they had it sitting on a deck for over an hour. It was by no means a happy fish. But here it was, after ten months of waiting."
The coelacanth kept rolling over on its back. Mark asked Said and Om Lameh to hold the fish for a moment and pose for a picture, and they did so, their faces breaking into wide smiles. Mark and Arnaz then suited up with their diving gear and underwater cameras and took the coelacanth out to the reef flat, where they photographed the fish underwater. Arnaz was worried that the bleeding fish might attract sharks, but Mark pushed on, taking the fish further out where the visibility in the water was better.
The coelacanth seemed to respond well to the change. Despite being tethered, it started to skull the water slowly with its fins. For the next 45 minutes, Arnaz and Mark swam alongside the fish, taking pictures all the while. The coelacanth didn't try to struggle or escape. It was a rapturous time. "I was mesmerized by the way its fins were moving," Arnaz recalled. "It was like a Balinese dancer. Just extremely graceful, with the fins all simultaneously moving in different directions. Like a slow, rhythmic dance."
"It had this gold flecking, these brilliant gold sparkles all over its body, which was not something we'd ever read about," Mark recalls. "It made us think more and more that this could be a new species, which is something that we had been wondering about since we had showed the snapshot photos around to the experts 10 months before."
"It was a much different experience than the first time, seeing a dead fish in the market," Mark explains. "This one was alive. And it is just a neat fish, a big, majestic fish with big, green, luminescent eyes. It was kind of otherworldly. It IS otherworldly. It is not from our realm of experience. It is a deep-sea sea monster. And you get that feeling when you get in the water and swim with one - not that too many other people ever will."
Mark realized time was running out for the King of the Sea, so he snapped out of his reverie and began to think like a scientist again. "My mind was racing with all the things we had to do, because there is a lot of sampling to be done." The film was finished, so Mark grabbed his dissecting kit, alcohol, sampling vials, and a container of liquid nitrogen. They lifted the huge fish up and placed it in a cooler box at the bottom of the boat. The coelacanth flapped its fins and gulped the air helplessly.
"I had this bad feeling - kurang enak is what the Indonesians would say. The fish was going to die, there was no doubt about that. There wasn't even a hope of releasing it and letting it go, even if we wanted to. But it took its time dying, and that was a bit hard to watch. Its big eyes would go back and forth, and look at me, then it would flop a fin a bit. It was sad."
"It had a kind of dignity. It was just sad that it had to be sacrificed," Arnaz recalls.
During the half-hour trip back to Manado the coelacanth was alive. But just as the boat moved in to dock at the harbor, the coelacanth's large luminous eyes dimmed and clouded. Mark, Arnaz, and the fishermen did not speak for a long time. The King of the Sea was gone.
Vipers
Mark quickly took tissue samples of the fish's heart, gills and liver and stored them in liquid nitrogen. Then he carefully packed the fish in a Styrofoam box which he stored in his landlady's freezer. With Roy Caldwell, and M. Kasim Moosa from the Indonesian Institute of Sciences, Erdmann began the process of writing a paper for the journal Nature, which appeared two months later.
Erdmann's discovery, now irrefutable, caused a predictable stir. "Second Home of the Fish from the Dinosaur Age Found," read The New York Times headline. The story also made CNN, BBC, ABC and FOX, with special emphasis on the "Storybook Honeymoon Adventure" angle. The Dinofish.com website received a record number of hits. But the effect on the rarefied world of coelacanth research was shattering - those who had earlier declared the find a hoax now had to eat their words, while certain others claimed to have been in on the secret the entire time. Mark was the center of a frenzy. He was invited to the National Science Foundation in the U.S. to discuss the implementation of conservation efforts, where he was roundly congratulated for his work. Before he left, however, one of the eminent scientists took him aside. "Be careful, Mark, because you've just stepped in a nest of vipers."
Susan Jewett, a curator at the Smithsonian Institution, flew to Manado four days after the article appeared. She and Mark then accompanied the now-frozen fish to the Bogor Zoological Museum, where Indonesia's most renowned scientists were waiting. Before beginning the process of preserving the fish with formalin, which would destroy its cell structure, Erdmann and Jewett once again took tissue samples from the fish's inner organs. This would allow the Indonesians to do their own independent DNA tests. "We had a gentleman's agreement with the Scientists at LIPI [The Indonesian Institute of Sciences]. I gave them the last set of tissue samples, I donated it, because it was part of Indonesia's heritage. I said, 'Store these well, because they are incredibly valuable. When we've done our analysis in the U.S. we'll send you the primers and you can replicate and confirm the process in Indonesia. We can then show it to be a different species and bring in people, if necessary, to help write up the description, or you can do it yourself.'"
While it was certainly happy news that the coelacanth had a much larger range and population than was previously known, it had not gone unnoticed by French scientists that the coelacanth monopoly was broken. Within hours of the Nature article's publication, a French cyptozoological website was claiming that a French fishery consultant named George Serres had caught a coelacanth off the coast of Java in 1995. The claim could not be confirmed, however, because the fish was "lost" en route to the Oceanographic Institute in Jakarta. Serres claimed to have taken photographs of the fish, but those too were unavailable - all his belongings had been stolen at around the same time. By that time, Erdmann was in contact with dozens of French coelacanth specialists. He received an e-mail from one of them containing private messages that had inadvertently escaped deletion. One of these messages, from a French scientist, read: "If we could find someone who could verify that the specimen prepared by Monsieur Serres was still at the Institute in Jakarta, it would be a pretty counter-scoop with a nice nationalistic flavor."
Meanwhile, unlikely rumors were already circulating that Jewett was planning to smuggle the meter-long fish back to the United States in her suitcase. Erdmann found himself defending his motives and denying the rumors. "The first fish was always going to be Indonesia's," he explained.
After the fish had been preserved with formalin and LIPI's skilled taxidermists had posed it in a life-like position, Erdmann formally presented the specimen to the institute's museum exhibition. Back in Manado, something of a gold rush mentality took hold of the local population. People were now offering RP. 2,000,000 for a coelacanth. Om Lameh and Maxon were approached by five groups of Japanese, including a delegation from the Toba Aquarium of Tokyo who had, years before, fruitlessly spent millions in the Comoros trying to catch a living coelacanth.
By 1999, the preliminary results of the DNA testing were back from the lab. A sequencing of the DNA revealed a 4.1 percent divergence from the Comoran variety - a strong indication that the Indonesian coelacanth was in fact a new species. But Erdmann decided to wait for the results of a detailed morphological comparison before going public with such a controversial claim. When those results were available, in March of 1999, Erdmann decided to publish a paper in Nature supporting that position. But he was too late. As Erdmann's paper waited publication, a Jakarta-based catfish specialist, Laurent Pouyaud, reported the results of a Franco-Indonesian team's DNA tests in a French scientific journal. After lobbying several of the LIPI scientists and being turned down, Pouyaud had finally managed to convince one of them to part with coelacanth tissue samples to make another independent analysis. Pouyaud did not wait for independent verification and did not hesitate to declare that the Indonesian coelacanth was a new species, christening it "Latimeria menadoensis L. Pouyaud et al 1999."
Erdmann, along with many Indonesian scientists and others in the coelacanth community, was livid at this act of scientific piracy. Harsh words flew across cyber lines and in the letters pages of scientific journals. Many were outraged at what they claimed were Pouyaud's ethical and scientific lapses. He had made no reference to the discoverer of the specimen, its holotype, or its museum number, and had sought widespread publicity for the new name in the popular press before scientific publication. Nevertheless the name conformed to the International Code of Zoological Nomenclature, and so it stuck.
When a reporter brings up Pouyaud's name, Erdmann's genial smile disappears. "If I see him, I will kill him." Arnaz places a calming hand on Mark's thigh, saying "You can't say that to a reporter, honey." "But I really will kill him," Mark replies. "Pouyaud has absolutely nothing to do with this fish. But from now on, and forever, his name will be associated with it." Pouyaud responded to the controversy by saying that he had been urged to name the fish by his Indonesian colleagues. The Indonesian scientists at LIPI deny this assertion, and Pouyaud is banned from ever visiting the scientific institution in Bogor.
A few months later, Pouyaud, along with Serres and a well-known coelacanth expert Bernard Seret, submitted an article to Nature hoping to buttress Serres' claim of a Javan coelacanth. Included with the article was a "recently discovered" photo that they claimed to be of the fish caught in 1995. The editors of Nature were suspicious, and they brought the picture to Erdmann's attention.
"When I looked a the photograph I knew right away that it was the fish I caught," Erdmann said. "The coloring was identical - only the placement of the fins was slightly altered - very crudely, by the way." Serres, Pouyaud, or someone else had quite clearly falsified the picture using standard Photoshop software and a computer. The forgery was so obvious that the French Institut de Recherche pour le Developpement (IRD), for whom all three had worked, launched an investigation. Neither Serres or Pouyaud were named in the investigation; rather, the IRD launched a complaint 'against X' for forgery, a standard procedure in France when there is a criminal act committed by an unknown person.
Serres, as recently as July 2000, still maintained that the photograph was authentic, although he updated his story by claiming that the picture had been given to him by the widow of a close friend who had taken the photo. Bernard Seret, an ichthyologist at the Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle de Paris, appears to have been duped by the entire affair. He now admits that the fish in the photograph is the fish caught by Erdmann. "This is very embarrassing," he was quoted in Nature. Still, a French name will forever be associated with the Indonesian coelacanth, and the French scientific community got their "nationalistic counter-scoop."
Bunaken
Erdmann now lives on Bunaken Island in North Sulawesi with Arnaz and his 18-month-old daughter. He's working to preserve the area as much as possible from the forces that are threatening the region's bio-diversity. It won't be easy. Despite being a maritime nation, Indonesia has a minimal and under-funded navy whose ships are often less well armed than the foreign fishing boats looting Indonesian waters. Just as damaging and dangerous are local and foreign fishermen who use cyanide and bombs to catch fish. The loss of the fish isn't the biggest problem, but rather the damage done to the coral reef framework beneath, which provides a spawning and feeding habitat for hundreds of species, and which will need centuries to recover.
Erdmann has been working to get the people of Bunaken to understand the importance of preserving their coral reefs. "One of our missions is to build a pride in what they have here. Most of the villagers have no idea why it is a park. They think someone in Jakarta just put their finger down on a map. We're saying, look, this is one of the neatest areas in the world. That is why it's a national park. You should have pride in it and that is reason in itself not to blow it up."
Recently Erdmann led a field trip at Bunaken for coral reef experts from the Caribbean. "They were just astonished at the variety of corals and fish species in Indonesian waters. To give you some idea of the bio-diversity here, the Bahamas has about 80 coral species. We have 500. As for the species I work with, crustaceans, they have 7 species. At Bunaken there are over 150. So there is really no comparison between the bio-diversity here and other places in the world." That argument doesn't always work with the fish bombers, who are often nomadic fisherman with no reason to care about the waters in any one area. "What I've been saying to anyone who will listen is that you need both a carrot and stick approach. The carrot is public education campaigns, the creation of jobs in the tourist industry - even giving money to people so they won't get involved in these destructive fishing practices, and I'm for all those things. But you've got to have a stick as well. You've got to have enforcement of the laws." Erdmann's NGO has also instituted a nominal fee of five dollars which local dive companies charge each diver. The money goes to augment the police and coast guard patrols in the area.
"Some people at the NGOs say we're hurting poor people who are forced by poverty to use these bombs to catch fish, but that isn't our experience here. In fact, the fish bombers are not poor - usually they are the richest people in the area. They've got the best boats, parabolas and nice houses. But they are getting rich as they destroy the livelihood of the rest of the community."
Erdmann also tried a tactic that was unusual in the area: he hired a lawyer. "This was a case where the bombers were caught red-handed, there were witnesses, but the police let them go because the bombers are well-connected. So we got a lawyer who literally hounded the police until they arrested them again. And now they are in jail. It worked. And I was just as surprised as the bombers were."
Mark Erdmann looks back on his experience with the Indonesian coelacanth with mixed feelings. "I can't deny that the coelacanth was a big boon to my career, but it certainly isn't a major focus of my life. We did what we thought was right for the coelacanth. I went to Jakarta, I worked with the Institute of Sciences and we got legislation passed to protect the fish. There's now a group called Team Coelacanth that monitors catches. And we did a public awareness campaign. Everyone in North Sulawesi know about this fish now, they are proud of it, and it is a flagship species for the Bunaken National Park -- it has really helped put us on the map. It focused attention on the management problems here, and that's what my focus is now, trying to protect Bunaken National Park."
"On the other hand, it completely ruined my naive view of the honor and dignity of science. What we saw was just an ugly, ugly side of science. We saw piracy, all kinds of chest beating - people saying, 'It's my discovery!' Stealing tissue samples, faked photographs - it was ugly, really ugly, what I saw there. I kind of laugh at it now, but - and that is part of the reason I really don't want to be involved with the coelacanth any more."
Erdmann pauses and falls quiet for a moment "It's not like I sit around worrying about coelacanths very much. They've managed pretty well for the past 300 million years, down there in their deep lairs."
Daniel McGuire is a freelance writer and filmmaker who lives in Bali.
OUTQUOTES:
1. Erdmann knew nothing about the politics of the coelacanth. His second mistake.
2. "What we saw was just an ugly, ugly side of science."
Terror In Paradise By Daniel McGuire
The terrorist bombing of two nightclubs in Bali on 12 October 2002 was the greatest one day loss of life in Australian history since World War 2, killing a larger percentage of that nation’s population than the attack on the World Trade Center on 9/11. 192 people were killed in all, 78 of them Australians, 22 British, 27 Americans and over 100 Indonesians. There were over 500 seriously wounded.
Three bombs were used in the attack. The first, which may have been in hidden in a backpack worn by a suicide bomber, went off at 11.05 pm at Paddie’s Club and consisted of 500 grams to 1 kg of TNT. The second device was a car bomb that exploded 10 to 15 seconds later in front of the Sari Club, which had around 300 people inside at the time. The third bomb, approximately the same size as the 1st bomb, exploded 45 seconds later near the US consulate, and used a handphone as a detonator. The third bomb did not cause any injuries.
According to Graham Aston of the Australian Federal Police, the Sari Club bomb was composed of between 50 and 150 kilos of chlorate, a chemical used in the making of detergents and rocket fuel. "The explosion resulted in a tremendous release of energy; this essentially caused a pressure wave, followed by fragmentation, which was then also followed by a large fire.” The force of the explosion was enough to “somersault” one vehicle 30 meters down the street, and destroy 53 buildings in the epicenter. Buildings nearly a kilometer away had ceramic roof tiles blown off by the blast. A crater was left in the road over 4 meters in diameter. Indonesian authorities, however, disagree, and disagree with AFP’s forensic analysis and have stated that the device contained RDX, (Cyclotrimhylenetrinitamine), HMX, (High Melting Explosive) and a detonator filled with PETN, (Pentaerythritoltetranitrate). The Chlorate was apparently purchased by a suspect named Amrozy (Many Indonesians use only one name) from the Tidar Kimia chemical warehouse in Surabaya, East Java.
It is difficult to assess the emergency response to this event by first world standards. Indonesia has only rudimentary emergency response. There is a fire department, but firemen are not given EMT or Paramedic training. No one in the police or military on the scene was apparently trained in CPR or triage – and if they were, they did not mobilize. Much of the response was done on an ad-hoc basis by local Indonesian volunteers, tourists at the scene, or expatriates with varying levels of knowledge. In this context, ordinary people from all walks of life became the emergency responders, and in many cases performed heroically and by any standard admirably - though not “correctly” from a technical standpoint. The sheer number of casualties must be appreciated - as one American EMT on the scene put it: “Any level one trauma center would have been overwhelmed with this. Completely. Where else on earth do you get 200 people killed instantly and 600 massively traumatized people, badly burned, completely fucked up – all coming in at once, to one hospital?”
Compounding the problem, it should be noted that basic things that EMS responders take for granted in the developed world – other trained responders, limitless medicines, equipment, and a mature command structure, meaning leadership – none of these things are available in Indonesia on the night of 12 October and in the days to follow.
The Bali Bombing wasn’t a typical “incident” or “event” in the standard EMS parlance, it was much more like a major battle in a war. “You could probably point to every single case and say ‘this is where you fucked up, you should have done this…’ But really, they didn’t have a choice.” It is hard to say the system failed, simply because there was no system.
AT THE SCENE
One of the most important figures in the early stages of the response was Haji Agus Bambang Priyanto, who arrived 20 minutes after the blast. Haji Bambang works as the head of parking in the Kuta area, and in this capacity was well known in the area. With the area filled with walking wounded, Haji exhorted local Balinese “ojek” – young men with motorcycles (often thugs) who provide transport for hire – to take anyone who could hold on securely to the hospital.
With no fire trucks yet on the scene, and intense heat preventing access to the area, he quickly returned home to don his uniform and locate members of the Fardu Ki Fayah, an Islamic volunteer group that performs last rites for Bali’s Moslem community. With volunteers in tow, carrying only white cloth (used to wrap bodies in traditional funerals) Haji and his group returned to the scene. Local fire responders were on the scene by that time (around 12:30 AM Oct 13th) and were attempting to put out the flames. Water pressure was apparently quite low. Haji Bambang ordered the firemen to arc water streams over the heads of himself and his volunteers as they moved forward into the fire zone. Agung Tresna, a community leader, worked side-by-side in this effort and also organized local Hindu youths to help with crowd control. Bodies and victims were dragged and carried out in this manner for hours. Around 2:00 am, Haji Bambang recalls feeling something brush against his ankle as he stood in the rubble. He absently kicked his foot and then felt the sensation once again. Looking down, he discovered a hand reaching out of the rubble. Calling for help, he recovered a female Japanese victim, who ultimately survived.
Perhaps the greatest failure in the emergency response involves the police and military. Indonesia has a strong police and military presence, and at least three high-ranking military figures, along with troops, were on the scene, observing, two hours after the bombing. Neither the military nor the police took a pro-active role in the emergency response, not even in providing crowd control at the bomb site or later, at the hospital. Haji Bambang surmises that the military’s inaction was due to concern, at the command level, that action of any kind might implicate them in the attack; Indonesia’s military has a long history of human rights abuses, including alliances with Islamist militia groups that have been accused of a number of bombings across Indonesia in the past two years. Whatever the case, they played virtually no role in the medical response. “They were pretty much worthless.” said one observer at the scene.
There is no number equivalent to 911 in Indonesia. Bali has only two fully-equipped ambulances, which are owned by private clinics, though there are at least 50 vehicles that identify themselves as ambulances – white Colt minivans with sirens that are more often used to bring bodies to graveyards than injured people to hospitals. Ambulances were primarily a notified by cell phone and word of mouth, which traveled fast given the size and sound of the explosion. Triage at the scene did not exist. Those who could walk or ride on the back of motorcycles self-evacuated in that manner. Ambulances on the scene arrived from both Sanglah Central hospital but also from a number of private clinics in the Kuta area. “There was a major problem at the bombing site.” Said one Indonesian doctor later. “We don’t have paramedics trained to look at the priorities of the patients. Who is to be transferred first, second, - on this island we don’t have this system yet. And we need it.” Ambulances in Bali are minimally equipped by 1st world standards, and drivers know only basic first aid procedures. Ambulances were used mostly for unconscious victims, transporting less serious patients to clinics and military hospitals. By morning, ambulances were used to transport the dead, which were laid out in white cloth by Haji Bambang and the many Balinese volunteers. In the coming hours and days the hundreds of critical patients and all the dead ended up at Sanglah General Hospital, approximately 10 km to the north.
SANGLAH
Founded 1959, Sanglah General Hospital comprises 756 beds and has a total staff 2237. There are 169 specialists, 234 GP’s, 850 nurses, 375 non-medical support staff, 7 pharmacists and 376 non-contracted day employees. Nurses have a base salary of around approximately $50 a month. Doctors have a base salary of $100 a month, though they usually have a private practice that provides supplemental funds. In 1990 the emergency room was completed with funds provided by the Japanese Government. Only two years ago the Sanglah Trauma Center was created.
Dr. Tjakra Wibawa, head of Oncology at Sanglah, was called to the hospital and arrived at 12:15 am. The E.R. was already completely full with the first wave of victims. “There were people everywhere – mostly burns and blast injuries - foreign bodies and fractures. I saw many head injuries. There was vomit everywhere - blood, feces, urine – everywhere – an effect of the blast injuries - patients lost control. I went back to basics – ABC’s – Airway, Breathing, Circulation. I never had to make a decision between treating this person or that person – if they could talk, I moved to someone who couldn’t talk, someone who needed an airway.”
As bad as the scene was 20 minutes after the blast, it only got worse. Patients who could self-evacuate generally had relatively minor blast injuries. They arrived on foot, by taxi and motorcycle, and they were treated as they came in. But then the ambulances started to arrive with the most serious patients – the burn victims. By then, though, the O.R.’s were completely full. And they had to wait. Said one witness “Sure, they blew it as far as triage. But under the circumstances? How many people are trained in triage? Even Doctors? The most triage you would ever get in Bali would be a bemo accident with 6 people hurt, they show up at the hospital and they say – you first, you second, you third. Sanglah had 500 traumas to deal with simultaneously…”
The Damage
Said one volunteer: “Burns, burns, - you opened a door, more burns…” Not surprisingly, the major problem was burns. Chemical residue was often apparent in the burns, and cooling off the wounds was performed with saline, and when that was not available, bottled water. SSD (silversulfadiazine) cream was applied as well, but that, too, soon became in short supply. Cheap gauze was most often used to cover the burns, which often tore off skin when changed. Staff at the hospital were unaware of the option of using plastic wrap, which can be used to cover a burn to prevent infection in the short term. IV’s were introduced and antibiotics were widely given, catheters were put in place. Many staff were not aware that plastic sheets are preferable to cloth sheets in the case of burn injuries. Some volunteers – both Indonesian and Western – understood the importance of keeping patients hydrated. Another major problem, as time progressed, was the management of patients over time. Initial treatment was often adequate, but follow-through was bad.
Blast injuries were also almost universal. One case that stuck out in the minds of the many of the doctors was a patient known as “girl with blue belly-button ring” Brought in unconscious, she had no apparent injuries, though she had clearly experienced the force of the blast – her hair was literally standing straight up. She was ventilated and demonstrated no signs of neurological activity. When the ventilator was taken off she died immediately. Common blast injuries were shrapnel and wounds from flying glass. Pneumothorax was also common, and commonly missed. Victims were released after treatment for minor injuries only to reappear hour or days later with pneumothoraxes that had been missed and were getting worse. Compounding the confusion in the E.R. was the fact that many patients were rendered completely deaf from the explosion.
By dawn Sanglah hospital was completely full of patients and over 150 corpses, which were unloaded on the ground near the morgue. The morgue had only 15 body bags in their inventory, so the corpses were either wrapped in cloth or left out in the open. Distraught families and friends of the dead, wounded and missing descended on the hospital grounds, along with hundreds of gawkers, press, and people offering to donate their blood and skills. Once again, the police and military were on hand but not engaged in crowd control. Given the completely overwhelming nature of the incident, along with a complete power vacuum, a variety of individuals – Indonesian and Western - from outside the hospital were able to insert themselves into the situation and provide aid. And by all accounts, they served an essential role.
VOLUNTEERS – Sunday, 13 October
Friends, family and total strangers who accompanied injured to the hospital very often stayed by the sides of their charges. With hospital staff unable to provide complete medical care, many volunteers stepped in. Their activities ranged from fanning the patients and bringing them water (air conditioners were not functioning at Sanglah) to treating burns and performing medical operations. Martin O'Neill, a civil engineer, spent many hours providing counseling to another Australian who had had both feet amputated. This patient had removed all his I.V.’s and wanted O’Neill to assist him in his own suicide. By morning, many volunteers with medical training had heard about the bombing and came in to offer their services. While Indonesian law prohibits foreign doctors from practicing medicine, the administration of Sanglah fairly quickly realized that they were in way over their heads. The leadership vacuum was acute. Sanglah administrators and medical staff were hesitant to give full support to trained foreign medical volunteers, but rarely got in their way if foreign volunteers took the initiative and started to work.
One illustrative scene took place in the early morning of the 13th involving a number of Australian doctors – tourists - who arrived at the wards and discovered patients needing immediate attention. An Australian RN recalls: “There were three very badly burned girls – they are all deceased now – they all had compartment syndrome – and they needed very quick release of the pressure. Their limbs were very, very cold, no circulation at all. So Dr. Veej (an Australian plastic surgeon) asked me for a scalpel to do escharectomy and the Australian consul stopped me and said, rightly, ‘You can’t do this without permission from the Indonesian authorities.’
So I walked with all the doctors back to the emergency rooms to see Dr. K. Dr. K said ‘Yes, but you have to follow procedure - please find Dr. L.’
So we found Dr. L and he said ‘Yes, but you have to follow procedure, you have to talk to Dr. X’.
So we went to talk to Dr. X and he said ‘It is not up to me, it is up to Dr. K’.
So I said to him ‘We’ve been to Dr. K!’ Dr. X said: ‘You have to go back to him.’
So I went back to Dr. K, and said ‘We are here, we are ready and willing to help, but we can’t work without your permission.’
And Dr. K responded by saying, again, ‘Well, you can, but you have to follow procedure…’
I said ‘Will you PLEASE show me your procedure!?’
And Dr. K realized we called it, because they didn’t really have a procedure to do escharectomy. Dr. K stood there a moment and then just shrugged his shoulders.
I asked: ‘Can I take that as consent?
Dr. K said ‘I suppose…’
‘Does everyone witness that? Let’s go…’”
This interchange is consistent with a complaint heard over and over from interviews with volunteers – the lack of general leadership from some western consul officials – fearful of an “international incident”, and Indonesian hospital administrators, unwilling to take responsibility or make adjustments to the existing structure that was completely inadequate.
This is not to say that the volunteers were always doing the right thing. At one time an Australian doctor came into a ward and removed a patient’s I.V. line, denouncing the Indonesian staff and explaining that it wasn’t proper to put a line into a burn site. “But in this case, there was no healthy tissue.” recalls Dr. Wibawa “Everything was burnt – and we put it there just to get some fluid in…” Later, the Australian doctor tried to get a line back into the patient and was unsuccessful. Kim Patra, an Australian-born RN who is now an Indonesian citizen, found herself constantly telling volunteers to stop feeding patients. In the early stages there were too many volunteers and they were completely unorganized. “I told them to organize themselves – take one specific job.” recalls Dr. Tjakra “When that began to happen things started to go much better. We had a lot of volunteers helping us, working the help line, giving information, work at crisis center. After it was ok.”
MORGUE
“I think the morgue was mind-blowing -- just absolutely mind-blowing.” Kim Patra, RN
“The people in the morgue deserve all the credit…” Dr. Tjakra Wibawa
American expatriate Sam Schultz is a long-time Bali resident who in the 1970’s lied about his age became an EMT at age 16. Sam arrived at Sanglah at 10 am the morning after the bombing. “I went into the hospital, thinking I could help, but it was unapproachable – just way too much. So I headed to the morgue. And I saw immediately that it was just absurd. You know those breezeways at the hospital? Bodies everywhere. And just tons of people – tourists – Indonesians, expatriates, press. No security at all. People taking pictures. Cops and military people just standing around . It wasn’t till the 3rd day that they started to cordon off the area.”
“One tourist – this guy Baba – was there. Baba is a total lunatic – one of those kind of hippy European guys you meet in India with the flip flops, the bag containing everything he owns, the chillum – that kind of thing. He was a main mover at that point. Crazy as hell, but he was the effective. Baba was the guy calling fish processing plants - screaming into the telephone for them to bring ice to the hospital ,- because people at the morgue were not dealing with it.”
“The morgue personnel were all there since early, doing their absolute best, attempting to act like it was business as usual - you know, bureaucrats - trying to deal with this in a normal way, and that was impossible. That created the chaos in a way.”
One simple problem was tagging the bodies. Some of the Indonesian bodies had ID’s, and it was fairly easy to deal with them. Most of the tourists wore light clothes that burned off, and left ID back at their hotels before heading out Saturday night to party. Making matters more difficult was that many of the bodies – over 45 – were so badly burned it was impossible to tell if they were male or female, Asian – meaning local, or Caucasian – meaning tourist. A “miscellaneous” room was allocated for unidentifiable bodies and body parts, which continued to be found over the next 24 hours.
Simple problems – only 15 available body bags – body tags made of water-soluble paper that disintegrated when wet, created major problems as time progressed. Few of the volunteers wore protective clothing – even rubber gloves were in short supply.
EVACUATION
The first C-130 Hercules from Australian arrived at 5 pm on 13 October, 18 hours after the explosion. In the hours leading up to the evacuation Kim Patra, an Australian-born RN who is now an Indonesian citizen, was working closely with the Australian Consul, redoing triage. “David __ at the Australian Consul said to me ‘The plane is getting here at 3 o’clock, but don’t tell anyone, because if it doesn’t get here we’ll have a riot.’ And I said, ‘David, add three hours to that. I evac, I know. And I never tell them when the plane is going to land. For sure you can add 3 hours to it.’ And it arrived at 5.”
Information coming from the Consul was often confusing. “I kept trying to get a list of what the plane had, how many ventilators, because I can’t do triage without that information.” Patra traveled around Bali’s capital Denpasar trying to round up all the patients that remained in local clinics and Military hospitals. “…and some of those patients had not gotten the right treatment and they had to be triaged again. All the dressings were taken off and it was all done again.”
When the Australian military arrived at 5 pm, the evacuation went very quickly. Nearly every ambulance in Bali was commandeered for the effort – “implicitly at gunpoint”, according to one witness. Kim Patra was one of the people in the difficult position of choosing which patients would be on the planes to Australia. “Our instructions were that we had to find the commonwealth patients - Australia, New Zealand, Canadian, English - because there is a mutual aid agreement between our countries. I can’t tell you how hard it was for me – to walk through a ward, thinking ‘You’re from France? I can’t talk to you. You’re Indonesian, I can’t talk to you. Oh, you’re Australian? I can talk to you.’ Really hard. But when the military arrived, they said – ‘We don’t care who they are, where they are from, if they want to come, they can come.’ I was so happy.”
Politics did, however, influence the evacuation process. The Australian Military insisted on bringing one Balinese patient with minor burns back to Sidney – much to the confusion of the people involved in triage. Apparently this patient was a witness and the AFP wanted to interrogate her. For the most part, the Indonesians remained in Sanglah – Indonesian doctors believed they could manage their patient’s problems, and the patients preferred to remain in Bali, close to their families and the support system it provides. It is also possible that many Balinese chose to remain in Bali out of fear of dying alone, overseas.
One commonly heard complaint among Balinese doctors – and confirmed by some western volunteers, that many of the transported patients were not stable enough to transfer. Says Dr. Wibawa: “I don’t criticize the Australian Military for the evacuation – if your son and daughters are hurt, you are going to want them back. But they didn’t trust us to take care of their patients. Some of the patients were very critically ill and not stable. And our National Trauma Team had arrived by this time. So we tried to talk to the Australian team and said ‘This patient should be stabilized first, before transport.’ They disagreed. They said they had an ICU on the airplane, ‘We can take care of it...” But I heard that at least one patient died at the airport, during transport. One patient we had tried to stabilize with severe burns, a hemoglobin level of 4. We had tried to give him a transfusion and stabilize him before transport - but they wouldn’t have it.”
But Australian medical personnel at the scene dismiss this criticism. “They would have died anyway because the weren’t getting proper care at Sanglah.” said one. Another controversy, the subject of many articles in local Indonesian papers, is the question of whether Indonesians received substandard care relative to the westerner victims. All the westerners believe this to be the case, as do many Indonesian volunteers. Doctors at Sanglah vehemently deny it, though some say that western patients got more attention simply because they demanded attention loudly and emphatically. From a cultural standpoint, it is fair to point out that Indonesians are far more stoic and resigned even when in extreme pain, and also much less likely to question authority – even when their lives are at stake.
MONDAY, 14 October
Even after the evacuation there were still hundreds of critical patients at Sanglah. With fewer western patients, many of the western volunteers – many who had been there for 24 hours – returned home. While the numbers of patients had lessened considerably, the hospital staff was still completely overwhelmed, and instead of the situation stabilizing, the bureaucracy collapsed further. Volunteers, mostly Indonesians, were still “dragooning nurses to change dressings” according to a witness.
Lee Downey one of the people who had been organizing the volunteers. A family center was created for western people looking for loved ones, because by Monday families were already arriving from Australia. A room was set up to post photographs of bodies for family members to identify. Coordination efforts were attempted with embassies, police, and the hospital. A week after the blast relatives were still showing up at the morgue looking for answers, because the volunteers were better informed than the embassies.
The situation at the morgue – which has a total of 12 refrigerated bays, was becoming more and more intolerable. By this time two American bodies had been identified and all 192 bodies were simply lying out on the ground or breezeway floors. “Baba”, one of the early organizers at the morgue, was removed after smashing the camera of a TV news crew. Sam Schultz found himself in very heated arguments with the Australian consul over how to best deal with the problem. “They kept saying that their forensic teams – the Pros From Dover – were going to show up and we had to do certain things. On our own we had spent 24 hours trying to get refrigerator trucks in because we knew that people were rotting on the ground. So finally we got the body bags, we got the trucks and said, ‘Okay, let’s put the bodies that we’ve I.D.’d in the freezers.’ We spent hours and hours and hours getting them in the trucks - cooled down, worked really hard to do this, because the bodies were just piled on the ground, with ice melting fast. Then the Australians came in and said – ‘No no no, we want them out again, because the forensic team is going to be here in 2 hours and…’
So it went back and forth. We’re screaming at each other. I’m saying ‘This is obvious! This is bullshit!’ And the Indonesian coroner is saying to me ‘Look, I have these ministers walking in, the President, the Vice President, and MY boss is telling me to do whatever the Australians ask.’ And the Australians are saying: ‘This is the Indonesian’s job, whatever the Indonesians want…’, and of course, you ended up with the dog’s breakfast.”
So I turned right around, and said to the coroner, Pak Edi, ‘Okay, lets do it’. We ended up pulling everyone out of the coolers, laying them out, and we saw every body all over again, opened the bags, checking ‘Is this am male or female? Identifiable as an Asian or not?’ This took hours and hours. So we got them all laid out again. I went home to sleep and when I came back the next day the bodies were still there, rotting. Because the Australian Forensic Team did not show up for another 36 hours.”
Kim Patra recalls: “I went down to the morgue because I knew that relatives were flying in. So I got my mask, hat, gown, boots, knowing full well that there were 200 bodies down there. I was shocked to see all these people dressed in shorts and thongs and singlets. Those people – and I hear they are having quite a few problems now – to think that they just walked out of their lives as surfers, students, hotel waiters, fourteen year old red cross volunteers in white bibs - into that… And do what they were doing…There were guys – dudes – beach bums - in the back of the trucks - two refrigerator trucks full of bodies – just wrapped in anything they could find. When I arrived they were taking the remains out and putting them in body bags, which had just arrived. And there they were, wearing nothing but beach clothes. And the smell. I was just amazed. I suppose it should not have been allowed, because they are coming down now with infections and psychological problems. But who was going to do it? Forensics had not arrived, there was no post mortem stuff.
I felt out of place in my O.R. scrubs. Like a big green robot.”
Sam Schultz: “Finally, the English consul showed up with his own freezer truck and said ‘We are putting all the English identified into the freezer’. And the Coroner said okay. You could do what you wanted if you could take responsibility yourself, and the English did that. Got the bodies in the truck – 18-19 people. I spent most of the day harassing the Australians – ‘Look, we’ve got three refrigerator trucks ready to go – 50 people I.D.’d already as Australian citizens, lets get them back in there.’ They said ‘Good idea, good idea, but…’”
TUESDAY 15 October
By Tuesday many of the overworked Indonesian doctors had help from additional foreign doctor volunteers. Recalls Dr. Tjakra “We had plastic surgeons from Singapore General Hospital come in on Tuesday. A team from Belgium. Then the Philippine team and one doctor – Dr. Bill Holmes – a hand surgeon - flew in from the United States. I had called him in the U.S. and informed him of the many hand burns. I just said ‘Please come, just come, we will see what you can do.’” By this time donations and medicine was arriving in large amounts from all over the world. Again, Sanglah did not have a mechanism to inventory, store, or secure the relief materials. There is a general consensus that a great deal was stolen. However, much of the supplies did reach their destination. Kim Patra was very surprise to discover that a week after the bombing Sanglah’s Melati ward had been completely renovated and converted to a burn unit. Air conditioners were working, and the staff was attired in sterile garb.
THE FUTURE
The western victims now are at least fortunate that they now have access to high standards of health care. Indonesian victims will continue to be treated for free, but the standards of care are much lower and overall outcomes less optimistic. A number of foundations have organized themselves under the umbrella of the Ibu Pertiwi Foundation which hopes to address this disparity. The main function will be to locate and provide follow-up care – physical and psychological – to the Indonesian victims of the blast.
As of this writing, there are 3 separate plans to develop an International Hospitals in Bali. Most observers agree that one good hospital is all that is really needed. In the short term, it is felt that there must be an emphasis on training and raising health care standards. “You can’t have a level one trauma center if you don’t have the trained staff to run it.” Said one observer. It is universally agreed that the Indonesian medical system needs help on all levels, but particularly at the administration level and at the level of first responders – there is no such thing as a paramedic or an EMT in Indonesia. Doctors and surgeons can become wealthy from their private practices – and in fact many are highly skilled with advanced degrees from foreign medical schools. In contrast a nurse – whose training usually ends upon graduation from a nursing high school – gets a salary of around $50 a month. E.R. patients may get adequate or good initial care, but once they are released to the ICU or the wards they are badly monitored. The Indonesian medical community has been on the defensive since the bombing, and most alarming to doctors is the growing call that Indonesia allow foreign physicians and nurses to practice, which would impact heavily on their livelihoods.
The total absence of 1st Responder training may be a blessing in disguise. If foreign aid organizations can fund such programs they will not have to do battle with an entrenched bureaucracy. Indonesians from outside the medical community can be brought in, international standards can be established from the beginning, and the benefits will be immediate. Nurse training and standards must be improved drastically, and allowing foreign nurses, doctors and administrators to work in Indonesia would have a positive effect on overall standards. A common argument made by Indonesian doctors is that this would result in a 2 tiered health care system – with the rich going to foreign doctors and the poor given to the Indonesian doctors – but clearly this is already the case: a 2 tiered health care system is already the norm in Indonesia.wealthy Indonesians usually seek medical treatment in Singapore or Australia, the poor have Sanglah. When the health gap is made worse by an inefficient, stagnant bureaucracy, and the result is a system with the worst Indonesia seems to have the worst aspects features of both for-profit and socialized medicine.
Lessons Learned
Tourists are ideal “soft targets” for terrorists, particularly in countries with porous borders and lax security. While Australia is only two hours away from Bali, it took 17 hours before military transports arrived to evacuate the injured. It also took forensics investigators nearly three days to arrive on the scene, by which time a great deal of evidence had been lost or degraded. At this writing, more than a month after the bombing, there are still 31 unidentified bodies at Sanglah hospital awaiting DNA testing. Western governments should develop emergency response protocols that will allow them to respond quickly and effectively when large numbers of their citizens have been victims of a terrorist attack or natural disaster in a foreign country..
It would take an incident of immense proportions to overwhelm a 1st world hospital the way that Sanglah hospital was overwhelmed, but if 9/11 has taught us anything, it is that we should expect it. The Bali bombing highlights the role that volunteers can play in such an incident. The day may well come that a terrorist or natural disaster may create so many casualties that a first responder – along with his normal duties - may be called to demonstrate leadership and marshal the efforts of untrained volunteers until a system is in place.
As Sam Schultz put it: “This situation was very much like a war. Now you can train 100 men for war but when the war comes only about 6-7 are going to be able to handle it – and a good military will support those people regardless of their place in the command structure. And also in a war you’ll find outsiders who can handle it. And when they come forward, you’ve got to point them in the right direction and support them too. Even if it is just means giving them positive feedback.”
“You’ll also find that there are people who can’t deal with it, and if they are part of the bureaucracy they can cause a lot of problems. They can’t drop their normal reality and say, ‘Here we are in an emergency situation, we have to adapt.’ Find the people who are willing to deal with it - trained or not – and support those people – until you’ve got a functional system in place.”
The Bali Bombing, from a response standpoint, was primarily a failure on the level of infrastructure, administration and command. It points to the importance of developing and maintaining command structures that are both clear, well defined, yet contain enough flexibility – “tensile” strength – to stretch and bend to accommodate skilled and/or willing volunteers.
It was is hard to find many instances of people in the response at the scene who did not work until exhaustion and take great personal risks in order to help others. People from all walks of life, all religions, nationalities, education levels, and cultures pitched in with an esprit that is both courageous and heartbreaking. Had there been a response mechanism in place in Bali that could have organized and focused the human resources, no doubt many more lives could have been saved.
END
Three bombs were used in the attack. The first, which may have been in hidden in a backpack worn by a suicide bomber, went off at 11.05 pm at Paddie’s Club and consisted of 500 grams to 1 kg of TNT. The second device was a car bomb that exploded 10 to 15 seconds later in front of the Sari Club, which had around 300 people inside at the time. The third bomb, approximately the same size as the 1st bomb, exploded 45 seconds later near the US consulate, and used a handphone as a detonator. The third bomb did not cause any injuries.
According to Graham Aston of the Australian Federal Police, the Sari Club bomb was composed of between 50 and 150 kilos of chlorate, a chemical used in the making of detergents and rocket fuel. "The explosion resulted in a tremendous release of energy; this essentially caused a pressure wave, followed by fragmentation, which was then also followed by a large fire.” The force of the explosion was enough to “somersault” one vehicle 30 meters down the street, and destroy 53 buildings in the epicenter. Buildings nearly a kilometer away had ceramic roof tiles blown off by the blast. A crater was left in the road over 4 meters in diameter. Indonesian authorities, however, disagree, and disagree with AFP’s forensic analysis and have stated that the device contained RDX, (Cyclotrimhylenetrinitamine), HMX, (High Melting Explosive) and a detonator filled with PETN, (Pentaerythritoltetranitrate). The Chlorate was apparently purchased by a suspect named Amrozy (Many Indonesians use only one name) from the Tidar Kimia chemical warehouse in Surabaya, East Java.
It is difficult to assess the emergency response to this event by first world standards. Indonesia has only rudimentary emergency response. There is a fire department, but firemen are not given EMT or Paramedic training. No one in the police or military on the scene was apparently trained in CPR or triage – and if they were, they did not mobilize. Much of the response was done on an ad-hoc basis by local Indonesian volunteers, tourists at the scene, or expatriates with varying levels of knowledge. In this context, ordinary people from all walks of life became the emergency responders, and in many cases performed heroically and by any standard admirably - though not “correctly” from a technical standpoint. The sheer number of casualties must be appreciated - as one American EMT on the scene put it: “Any level one trauma center would have been overwhelmed with this. Completely. Where else on earth do you get 200 people killed instantly and 600 massively traumatized people, badly burned, completely fucked up – all coming in at once, to one hospital?”
Compounding the problem, it should be noted that basic things that EMS responders take for granted in the developed world – other trained responders, limitless medicines, equipment, and a mature command structure, meaning leadership – none of these things are available in Indonesia on the night of 12 October and in the days to follow.
The Bali Bombing wasn’t a typical “incident” or “event” in the standard EMS parlance, it was much more like a major battle in a war. “You could probably point to every single case and say ‘this is where you fucked up, you should have done this…’ But really, they didn’t have a choice.” It is hard to say the system failed, simply because there was no system.
AT THE SCENE
One of the most important figures in the early stages of the response was Haji Agus Bambang Priyanto, who arrived 20 minutes after the blast. Haji Bambang works as the head of parking in the Kuta area, and in this capacity was well known in the area. With the area filled with walking wounded, Haji exhorted local Balinese “ojek” – young men with motorcycles (often thugs) who provide transport for hire – to take anyone who could hold on securely to the hospital.
With no fire trucks yet on the scene, and intense heat preventing access to the area, he quickly returned home to don his uniform and locate members of the Fardu Ki Fayah, an Islamic volunteer group that performs last rites for Bali’s Moslem community. With volunteers in tow, carrying only white cloth (used to wrap bodies in traditional funerals) Haji and his group returned to the scene. Local fire responders were on the scene by that time (around 12:30 AM Oct 13th) and were attempting to put out the flames. Water pressure was apparently quite low. Haji Bambang ordered the firemen to arc water streams over the heads of himself and his volunteers as they moved forward into the fire zone. Agung Tresna, a community leader, worked side-by-side in this effort and also organized local Hindu youths to help with crowd control. Bodies and victims were dragged and carried out in this manner for hours. Around 2:00 am, Haji Bambang recalls feeling something brush against his ankle as he stood in the rubble. He absently kicked his foot and then felt the sensation once again. Looking down, he discovered a hand reaching out of the rubble. Calling for help, he recovered a female Japanese victim, who ultimately survived.
Perhaps the greatest failure in the emergency response involves the police and military. Indonesia has a strong police and military presence, and at least three high-ranking military figures, along with troops, were on the scene, observing, two hours after the bombing. Neither the military nor the police took a pro-active role in the emergency response, not even in providing crowd control at the bomb site or later, at the hospital. Haji Bambang surmises that the military’s inaction was due to concern, at the command level, that action of any kind might implicate them in the attack; Indonesia’s military has a long history of human rights abuses, including alliances with Islamist militia groups that have been accused of a number of bombings across Indonesia in the past two years. Whatever the case, they played virtually no role in the medical response. “They were pretty much worthless.” said one observer at the scene.
There is no number equivalent to 911 in Indonesia. Bali has only two fully-equipped ambulances, which are owned by private clinics, though there are at least 50 vehicles that identify themselves as ambulances – white Colt minivans with sirens that are more often used to bring bodies to graveyards than injured people to hospitals. Ambulances were primarily a notified by cell phone and word of mouth, which traveled fast given the size and sound of the explosion. Triage at the scene did not exist. Those who could walk or ride on the back of motorcycles self-evacuated in that manner. Ambulances on the scene arrived from both Sanglah Central hospital but also from a number of private clinics in the Kuta area. “There was a major problem at the bombing site.” Said one Indonesian doctor later. “We don’t have paramedics trained to look at the priorities of the patients. Who is to be transferred first, second, - on this island we don’t have this system yet. And we need it.” Ambulances in Bali are minimally equipped by 1st world standards, and drivers know only basic first aid procedures. Ambulances were used mostly for unconscious victims, transporting less serious patients to clinics and military hospitals. By morning, ambulances were used to transport the dead, which were laid out in white cloth by Haji Bambang and the many Balinese volunteers. In the coming hours and days the hundreds of critical patients and all the dead ended up at Sanglah General Hospital, approximately 10 km to the north.
SANGLAH
Founded 1959, Sanglah General Hospital comprises 756 beds and has a total staff 2237. There are 169 specialists, 234 GP’s, 850 nurses, 375 non-medical support staff, 7 pharmacists and 376 non-contracted day employees. Nurses have a base salary of around approximately $50 a month. Doctors have a base salary of $100 a month, though they usually have a private practice that provides supplemental funds. In 1990 the emergency room was completed with funds provided by the Japanese Government. Only two years ago the Sanglah Trauma Center was created.
Dr. Tjakra Wibawa, head of Oncology at Sanglah, was called to the hospital and arrived at 12:15 am. The E.R. was already completely full with the first wave of victims. “There were people everywhere – mostly burns and blast injuries - foreign bodies and fractures. I saw many head injuries. There was vomit everywhere - blood, feces, urine – everywhere – an effect of the blast injuries - patients lost control. I went back to basics – ABC’s – Airway, Breathing, Circulation. I never had to make a decision between treating this person or that person – if they could talk, I moved to someone who couldn’t talk, someone who needed an airway.”
As bad as the scene was 20 minutes after the blast, it only got worse. Patients who could self-evacuate generally had relatively minor blast injuries. They arrived on foot, by taxi and motorcycle, and they were treated as they came in. But then the ambulances started to arrive with the most serious patients – the burn victims. By then, though, the O.R.’s were completely full. And they had to wait. Said one witness “Sure, they blew it as far as triage. But under the circumstances? How many people are trained in triage? Even Doctors? The most triage you would ever get in Bali would be a bemo accident with 6 people hurt, they show up at the hospital and they say – you first, you second, you third. Sanglah had 500 traumas to deal with simultaneously…”
The Damage
Said one volunteer: “Burns, burns, - you opened a door, more burns…” Not surprisingly, the major problem was burns. Chemical residue was often apparent in the burns, and cooling off the wounds was performed with saline, and when that was not available, bottled water. SSD (silversulfadiazine) cream was applied as well, but that, too, soon became in short supply. Cheap gauze was most often used to cover the burns, which often tore off skin when changed. Staff at the hospital were unaware of the option of using plastic wrap, which can be used to cover a burn to prevent infection in the short term. IV’s were introduced and antibiotics were widely given, catheters were put in place. Many staff were not aware that plastic sheets are preferable to cloth sheets in the case of burn injuries. Some volunteers – both Indonesian and Western – understood the importance of keeping patients hydrated. Another major problem, as time progressed, was the management of patients over time. Initial treatment was often adequate, but follow-through was bad.
Blast injuries were also almost universal. One case that stuck out in the minds of the many of the doctors was a patient known as “girl with blue belly-button ring” Brought in unconscious, she had no apparent injuries, though she had clearly experienced the force of the blast – her hair was literally standing straight up. She was ventilated and demonstrated no signs of neurological activity. When the ventilator was taken off she died immediately. Common blast injuries were shrapnel and wounds from flying glass. Pneumothorax was also common, and commonly missed. Victims were released after treatment for minor injuries only to reappear hour or days later with pneumothoraxes that had been missed and were getting worse. Compounding the confusion in the E.R. was the fact that many patients were rendered completely deaf from the explosion.
By dawn Sanglah hospital was completely full of patients and over 150 corpses, which were unloaded on the ground near the morgue. The morgue had only 15 body bags in their inventory, so the corpses were either wrapped in cloth or left out in the open. Distraught families and friends of the dead, wounded and missing descended on the hospital grounds, along with hundreds of gawkers, press, and people offering to donate their blood and skills. Once again, the police and military were on hand but not engaged in crowd control. Given the completely overwhelming nature of the incident, along with a complete power vacuum, a variety of individuals – Indonesian and Western - from outside the hospital were able to insert themselves into the situation and provide aid. And by all accounts, they served an essential role.
VOLUNTEERS – Sunday, 13 October
Friends, family and total strangers who accompanied injured to the hospital very often stayed by the sides of their charges. With hospital staff unable to provide complete medical care, many volunteers stepped in. Their activities ranged from fanning the patients and bringing them water (air conditioners were not functioning at Sanglah) to treating burns and performing medical operations. Martin O'Neill, a civil engineer, spent many hours providing counseling to another Australian who had had both feet amputated. This patient had removed all his I.V.’s and wanted O’Neill to assist him in his own suicide. By morning, many volunteers with medical training had heard about the bombing and came in to offer their services. While Indonesian law prohibits foreign doctors from practicing medicine, the administration of Sanglah fairly quickly realized that they were in way over their heads. The leadership vacuum was acute. Sanglah administrators and medical staff were hesitant to give full support to trained foreign medical volunteers, but rarely got in their way if foreign volunteers took the initiative and started to work.
One illustrative scene took place in the early morning of the 13th involving a number of Australian doctors – tourists - who arrived at the wards and discovered patients needing immediate attention. An Australian RN recalls: “There were three very badly burned girls – they are all deceased now – they all had compartment syndrome – and they needed very quick release of the pressure. Their limbs were very, very cold, no circulation at all. So Dr. Veej (an Australian plastic surgeon) asked me for a scalpel to do escharectomy and the Australian consul stopped me and said, rightly, ‘You can’t do this without permission from the Indonesian authorities.’
So I walked with all the doctors back to the emergency rooms to see Dr. K. Dr. K said ‘Yes, but you have to follow procedure - please find Dr. L.’
So we found Dr. L and he said ‘Yes, but you have to follow procedure, you have to talk to Dr. X’.
So we went to talk to Dr. X and he said ‘It is not up to me, it is up to Dr. K’.
So I said to him ‘We’ve been to Dr. K!’ Dr. X said: ‘You have to go back to him.’
So I went back to Dr. K, and said ‘We are here, we are ready and willing to help, but we can’t work without your permission.’
And Dr. K responded by saying, again, ‘Well, you can, but you have to follow procedure…’
I said ‘Will you PLEASE show me your procedure!?’
And Dr. K realized we called it, because they didn’t really have a procedure to do escharectomy. Dr. K stood there a moment and then just shrugged his shoulders.
I asked: ‘Can I take that as consent?
Dr. K said ‘I suppose…’
‘Does everyone witness that? Let’s go…’”
This interchange is consistent with a complaint heard over and over from interviews with volunteers – the lack of general leadership from some western consul officials – fearful of an “international incident”, and Indonesian hospital administrators, unwilling to take responsibility or make adjustments to the existing structure that was completely inadequate.
This is not to say that the volunteers were always doing the right thing. At one time an Australian doctor came into a ward and removed a patient’s I.V. line, denouncing the Indonesian staff and explaining that it wasn’t proper to put a line into a burn site. “But in this case, there was no healthy tissue.” recalls Dr. Wibawa “Everything was burnt – and we put it there just to get some fluid in…” Later, the Australian doctor tried to get a line back into the patient and was unsuccessful. Kim Patra, an Australian-born RN who is now an Indonesian citizen, found herself constantly telling volunteers to stop feeding patients. In the early stages there were too many volunteers and they were completely unorganized. “I told them to organize themselves – take one specific job.” recalls Dr. Tjakra “When that began to happen things started to go much better. We had a lot of volunteers helping us, working the help line, giving information, work at crisis center. After it was ok.”
MORGUE
“I think the morgue was mind-blowing -- just absolutely mind-blowing.” Kim Patra, RN
“The people in the morgue deserve all the credit…” Dr. Tjakra Wibawa
American expatriate Sam Schultz is a long-time Bali resident who in the 1970’s lied about his age became an EMT at age 16. Sam arrived at Sanglah at 10 am the morning after the bombing. “I went into the hospital, thinking I could help, but it was unapproachable – just way too much. So I headed to the morgue. And I saw immediately that it was just absurd. You know those breezeways at the hospital? Bodies everywhere. And just tons of people – tourists – Indonesians, expatriates, press. No security at all. People taking pictures. Cops and military people just standing around . It wasn’t till the 3rd day that they started to cordon off the area.”
“One tourist – this guy Baba – was there. Baba is a total lunatic – one of those kind of hippy European guys you meet in India with the flip flops, the bag containing everything he owns, the chillum – that kind of thing. He was a main mover at that point. Crazy as hell, but he was the effective. Baba was the guy calling fish processing plants - screaming into the telephone for them to bring ice to the hospital ,- because people at the morgue were not dealing with it.”
“The morgue personnel were all there since early, doing their absolute best, attempting to act like it was business as usual - you know, bureaucrats - trying to deal with this in a normal way, and that was impossible. That created the chaos in a way.”
One simple problem was tagging the bodies. Some of the Indonesian bodies had ID’s, and it was fairly easy to deal with them. Most of the tourists wore light clothes that burned off, and left ID back at their hotels before heading out Saturday night to party. Making matters more difficult was that many of the bodies – over 45 – were so badly burned it was impossible to tell if they were male or female, Asian – meaning local, or Caucasian – meaning tourist. A “miscellaneous” room was allocated for unidentifiable bodies and body parts, which continued to be found over the next 24 hours.
Simple problems – only 15 available body bags – body tags made of water-soluble paper that disintegrated when wet, created major problems as time progressed. Few of the volunteers wore protective clothing – even rubber gloves were in short supply.
EVACUATION
The first C-130 Hercules from Australian arrived at 5 pm on 13 October, 18 hours after the explosion. In the hours leading up to the evacuation Kim Patra, an Australian-born RN who is now an Indonesian citizen, was working closely with the Australian Consul, redoing triage. “David __ at the Australian Consul said to me ‘The plane is getting here at 3 o’clock, but don’t tell anyone, because if it doesn’t get here we’ll have a riot.’ And I said, ‘David, add three hours to that. I evac, I know. And I never tell them when the plane is going to land. For sure you can add 3 hours to it.’ And it arrived at 5.”
Information coming from the Consul was often confusing. “I kept trying to get a list of what the plane had, how many ventilators, because I can’t do triage without that information.” Patra traveled around Bali’s capital Denpasar trying to round up all the patients that remained in local clinics and Military hospitals. “…and some of those patients had not gotten the right treatment and they had to be triaged again. All the dressings were taken off and it was all done again.”
When the Australian military arrived at 5 pm, the evacuation went very quickly. Nearly every ambulance in Bali was commandeered for the effort – “implicitly at gunpoint”, according to one witness. Kim Patra was one of the people in the difficult position of choosing which patients would be on the planes to Australia. “Our instructions were that we had to find the commonwealth patients - Australia, New Zealand, Canadian, English - because there is a mutual aid agreement between our countries. I can’t tell you how hard it was for me – to walk through a ward, thinking ‘You’re from France? I can’t talk to you. You’re Indonesian, I can’t talk to you. Oh, you’re Australian? I can talk to you.’ Really hard. But when the military arrived, they said – ‘We don’t care who they are, where they are from, if they want to come, they can come.’ I was so happy.”
Politics did, however, influence the evacuation process. The Australian Military insisted on bringing one Balinese patient with minor burns back to Sidney – much to the confusion of the people involved in triage. Apparently this patient was a witness and the AFP wanted to interrogate her. For the most part, the Indonesians remained in Sanglah – Indonesian doctors believed they could manage their patient’s problems, and the patients preferred to remain in Bali, close to their families and the support system it provides. It is also possible that many Balinese chose to remain in Bali out of fear of dying alone, overseas.
One commonly heard complaint among Balinese doctors – and confirmed by some western volunteers, that many of the transported patients were not stable enough to transfer. Says Dr. Wibawa: “I don’t criticize the Australian Military for the evacuation – if your son and daughters are hurt, you are going to want them back. But they didn’t trust us to take care of their patients. Some of the patients were very critically ill and not stable. And our National Trauma Team had arrived by this time. So we tried to talk to the Australian team and said ‘This patient should be stabilized first, before transport.’ They disagreed. They said they had an ICU on the airplane, ‘We can take care of it...” But I heard that at least one patient died at the airport, during transport. One patient we had tried to stabilize with severe burns, a hemoglobin level of 4. We had tried to give him a transfusion and stabilize him before transport - but they wouldn’t have it.”
But Australian medical personnel at the scene dismiss this criticism. “They would have died anyway because the weren’t getting proper care at Sanglah.” said one. Another controversy, the subject of many articles in local Indonesian papers, is the question of whether Indonesians received substandard care relative to the westerner victims. All the westerners believe this to be the case, as do many Indonesian volunteers. Doctors at Sanglah vehemently deny it, though some say that western patients got more attention simply because they demanded attention loudly and emphatically. From a cultural standpoint, it is fair to point out that Indonesians are far more stoic and resigned even when in extreme pain, and also much less likely to question authority – even when their lives are at stake.
MONDAY, 14 October
Even after the evacuation there were still hundreds of critical patients at Sanglah. With fewer western patients, many of the western volunteers – many who had been there for 24 hours – returned home. While the numbers of patients had lessened considerably, the hospital staff was still completely overwhelmed, and instead of the situation stabilizing, the bureaucracy collapsed further. Volunteers, mostly Indonesians, were still “dragooning nurses to change dressings” according to a witness.
Lee Downey one of the people who had been organizing the volunteers. A family center was created for western people looking for loved ones, because by Monday families were already arriving from Australia. A room was set up to post photographs of bodies for family members to identify. Coordination efforts were attempted with embassies, police, and the hospital. A week after the blast relatives were still showing up at the morgue looking for answers, because the volunteers were better informed than the embassies.
The situation at the morgue – which has a total of 12 refrigerated bays, was becoming more and more intolerable. By this time two American bodies had been identified and all 192 bodies were simply lying out on the ground or breezeway floors. “Baba”, one of the early organizers at the morgue, was removed after smashing the camera of a TV news crew. Sam Schultz found himself in very heated arguments with the Australian consul over how to best deal with the problem. “They kept saying that their forensic teams – the Pros From Dover – were going to show up and we had to do certain things. On our own we had spent 24 hours trying to get refrigerator trucks in because we knew that people were rotting on the ground. So finally we got the body bags, we got the trucks and said, ‘Okay, let’s put the bodies that we’ve I.D.’d in the freezers.’ We spent hours and hours and hours getting them in the trucks - cooled down, worked really hard to do this, because the bodies were just piled on the ground, with ice melting fast. Then the Australians came in and said – ‘No no no, we want them out again, because the forensic team is going to be here in 2 hours and…’
So it went back and forth. We’re screaming at each other. I’m saying ‘This is obvious! This is bullshit!’ And the Indonesian coroner is saying to me ‘Look, I have these ministers walking in, the President, the Vice President, and MY boss is telling me to do whatever the Australians ask.’ And the Australians are saying: ‘This is the Indonesian’s job, whatever the Indonesians want…’, and of course, you ended up with the dog’s breakfast.”
So I turned right around, and said to the coroner, Pak Edi, ‘Okay, lets do it’. We ended up pulling everyone out of the coolers, laying them out, and we saw every body all over again, opened the bags, checking ‘Is this am male or female? Identifiable as an Asian or not?’ This took hours and hours. So we got them all laid out again. I went home to sleep and when I came back the next day the bodies were still there, rotting. Because the Australian Forensic Team did not show up for another 36 hours.”
Kim Patra recalls: “I went down to the morgue because I knew that relatives were flying in. So I got my mask, hat, gown, boots, knowing full well that there were 200 bodies down there. I was shocked to see all these people dressed in shorts and thongs and singlets. Those people – and I hear they are having quite a few problems now – to think that they just walked out of their lives as surfers, students, hotel waiters, fourteen year old red cross volunteers in white bibs - into that… And do what they were doing…There were guys – dudes – beach bums - in the back of the trucks - two refrigerator trucks full of bodies – just wrapped in anything they could find. When I arrived they were taking the remains out and putting them in body bags, which had just arrived. And there they were, wearing nothing but beach clothes. And the smell. I was just amazed. I suppose it should not have been allowed, because they are coming down now with infections and psychological problems. But who was going to do it? Forensics had not arrived, there was no post mortem stuff.
I felt out of place in my O.R. scrubs. Like a big green robot.”
Sam Schultz: “Finally, the English consul showed up with his own freezer truck and said ‘We are putting all the English identified into the freezer’. And the Coroner said okay. You could do what you wanted if you could take responsibility yourself, and the English did that. Got the bodies in the truck – 18-19 people. I spent most of the day harassing the Australians – ‘Look, we’ve got three refrigerator trucks ready to go – 50 people I.D.’d already as Australian citizens, lets get them back in there.’ They said ‘Good idea, good idea, but…’”
TUESDAY 15 October
By Tuesday many of the overworked Indonesian doctors had help from additional foreign doctor volunteers. Recalls Dr. Tjakra “We had plastic surgeons from Singapore General Hospital come in on Tuesday. A team from Belgium. Then the Philippine team and one doctor – Dr. Bill Holmes – a hand surgeon - flew in from the United States. I had called him in the U.S. and informed him of the many hand burns. I just said ‘Please come, just come, we will see what you can do.’” By this time donations and medicine was arriving in large amounts from all over the world. Again, Sanglah did not have a mechanism to inventory, store, or secure the relief materials. There is a general consensus that a great deal was stolen. However, much of the supplies did reach their destination. Kim Patra was very surprise to discover that a week after the bombing Sanglah’s Melati ward had been completely renovated and converted to a burn unit. Air conditioners were working, and the staff was attired in sterile garb.
THE FUTURE
The western victims now are at least fortunate that they now have access to high standards of health care. Indonesian victims will continue to be treated for free, but the standards of care are much lower and overall outcomes less optimistic. A number of foundations have organized themselves under the umbrella of the Ibu Pertiwi Foundation which hopes to address this disparity. The main function will be to locate and provide follow-up care – physical and psychological – to the Indonesian victims of the blast.
As of this writing, there are 3 separate plans to develop an International Hospitals in Bali. Most observers agree that one good hospital is all that is really needed. In the short term, it is felt that there must be an emphasis on training and raising health care standards. “You can’t have a level one trauma center if you don’t have the trained staff to run it.” Said one observer. It is universally agreed that the Indonesian medical system needs help on all levels, but particularly at the administration level and at the level of first responders – there is no such thing as a paramedic or an EMT in Indonesia. Doctors and surgeons can become wealthy from their private practices – and in fact many are highly skilled with advanced degrees from foreign medical schools. In contrast a nurse – whose training usually ends upon graduation from a nursing high school – gets a salary of around $50 a month. E.R. patients may get adequate or good initial care, but once they are released to the ICU or the wards they are badly monitored. The Indonesian medical community has been on the defensive since the bombing, and most alarming to doctors is the growing call that Indonesia allow foreign physicians and nurses to practice, which would impact heavily on their livelihoods.
The total absence of 1st Responder training may be a blessing in disguise. If foreign aid organizations can fund such programs they will not have to do battle with an entrenched bureaucracy. Indonesians from outside the medical community can be brought in, international standards can be established from the beginning, and the benefits will be immediate. Nurse training and standards must be improved drastically, and allowing foreign nurses, doctors and administrators to work in Indonesia would have a positive effect on overall standards. A common argument made by Indonesian doctors is that this would result in a 2 tiered health care system – with the rich going to foreign doctors and the poor given to the Indonesian doctors – but clearly this is already the case: a 2 tiered health care system is already the norm in Indonesia.wealthy Indonesians usually seek medical treatment in Singapore or Australia, the poor have Sanglah. When the health gap is made worse by an inefficient, stagnant bureaucracy, and the result is a system with the worst Indonesia seems to have the worst aspects features of both for-profit and socialized medicine.
Lessons Learned
Tourists are ideal “soft targets” for terrorists, particularly in countries with porous borders and lax security. While Australia is only two hours away from Bali, it took 17 hours before military transports arrived to evacuate the injured. It also took forensics investigators nearly three days to arrive on the scene, by which time a great deal of evidence had been lost or degraded. At this writing, more than a month after the bombing, there are still 31 unidentified bodies at Sanglah hospital awaiting DNA testing. Western governments should develop emergency response protocols that will allow them to respond quickly and effectively when large numbers of their citizens have been victims of a terrorist attack or natural disaster in a foreign country..
It would take an incident of immense proportions to overwhelm a 1st world hospital the way that Sanglah hospital was overwhelmed, but if 9/11 has taught us anything, it is that we should expect it. The Bali bombing highlights the role that volunteers can play in such an incident. The day may well come that a terrorist or natural disaster may create so many casualties that a first responder – along with his normal duties - may be called to demonstrate leadership and marshal the efforts of untrained volunteers until a system is in place.
As Sam Schultz put it: “This situation was very much like a war. Now you can train 100 men for war but when the war comes only about 6-7 are going to be able to handle it – and a good military will support those people regardless of their place in the command structure. And also in a war you’ll find outsiders who can handle it. And when they come forward, you’ve got to point them in the right direction and support them too. Even if it is just means giving them positive feedback.”
“You’ll also find that there are people who can’t deal with it, and if they are part of the bureaucracy they can cause a lot of problems. They can’t drop their normal reality and say, ‘Here we are in an emergency situation, we have to adapt.’ Find the people who are willing to deal with it - trained or not – and support those people – until you’ve got a functional system in place.”
The Bali Bombing, from a response standpoint, was primarily a failure on the level of infrastructure, administration and command. It points to the importance of developing and maintaining command structures that are both clear, well defined, yet contain enough flexibility – “tensile” strength – to stretch and bend to accommodate skilled and/or willing volunteers.
It was is hard to find many instances of people in the response at the scene who did not work until exhaustion and take great personal risks in order to help others. People from all walks of life, all religions, nationalities, education levels, and cultures pitched in with an esprit that is both courageous and heartbreaking. Had there been a response mechanism in place in Bali that could have organized and focused the human resources, no doubt many more lives could have been saved.
END
Friday, October 5, 2007
American Express Guide to Bali
I wrote this Guide to Bali for the American Express Travel site. This site is for holders of AE's premium "black" credit card - people who charge more than $100,000 per annum.
Friday, December 15, 2000
Cuban Health Statistics Continue to Embarrass West
Cuban authorities mocked American health care providers today after the PAHO, the Pan American Health Organization, unveiled its report on health care at Madison Square Garden.
"In your face." jeered Juan Batista, Senior Health Advisor to Fidel Castro, after the report once again documented that on many of the most critical criteria - life expectancy, infant mortality, doctors as percent of population, and national health expenditure as percent of GNP, the Cuban dictatorship equaled or beat America.
Reached in the locker room not long afterwards, former US Surgeon General Everett Koop wiped away a tear. "We'll get them next year. Remember, we still have liposuction techniques that those reds can't touch."
The fallout after this embarrassing debacle, in which a poor third world country trounced the richest and most technologically advanced nation in the world, reached as far as the IMF and World Bank as economic leaders converge in Washington. A shamefaced Stanley Fischer remarked: "How can we defend our system of open economies and free market capitalism when these lawn jockies kick our butts on infant mortality?"
Fischer will have a particularly hard sell when he journeys to Jakarta next week to renegotiate a debt relief program. Indonesia, like many third world nations aligned to Washington during the cold war, relied heavily on coaching staff from the WHO, The World Bank, and the IMF. In terms of basic health care, however, they have little to show for their loyalty. Infant mortality in Indonesia is 43 per 1000, and life expectancy is 65 years. Cuba's rates are 7 per 1000 and 76 years, respectively, and have actually improved since the loss of Soviet economic support in 1989.
At a post-game press conference, the CEO's of Merck and Pfizer reacted with disappointment at the Cuba win and vowed to reallocate their resources with a goal of beating Cuba in 2001. "That means no money for marketing high profit 'lifestyle' drugs such as Viagra, Prozac and Ritalin. From now we're in the business of saving and prolonging lives as effectively as possible." said Pfizer's CEO.
The Americans were heartened by other statistics that indicated that the wealthiest 20 per cent of Americans had access to far better health care than the average Cuban. President Clinton stated: "Now we all know that we've got to be patient as we wait for those benefits with trickle down to the rest of us. But I understand the concern many Americans feel that it seems to be taking far too long."
President Clinton added that "There is reason for hope that America will pull ahead, as we still have the ability to prosecute corporations and individuals who violate the blockade and sell medicines to the Communist dictatorship." He pointed to the Torricelli Act and the Helms-Burton act as examples of how bi-partisan efforts can put pressure on the Castro regime. "The Cubans, for example, can't buy the only effective treatment for pediatric leukemia."
The health care conference was the highest rated pay-per-view event since the Tyson-Holyfield fight. The crushing loss was devastating to US fans, who had packed into sports bars across the country. In the final minutes of PAHO's presentation, as the results were read, Fidel Castro further enraged Americans by making the "choke" gesture at President Clinton.
"In your face." jeered Juan Batista, Senior Health Advisor to Fidel Castro, after the report once again documented that on many of the most critical criteria - life expectancy, infant mortality, doctors as percent of population, and national health expenditure as percent of GNP, the Cuban dictatorship equaled or beat America.
Reached in the locker room not long afterwards, former US Surgeon General Everett Koop wiped away a tear. "We'll get them next year. Remember, we still have liposuction techniques that those reds can't touch."
The fallout after this embarrassing debacle, in which a poor third world country trounced the richest and most technologically advanced nation in the world, reached as far as the IMF and World Bank as economic leaders converge in Washington. A shamefaced Stanley Fischer remarked: "How can we defend our system of open economies and free market capitalism when these lawn jockies kick our butts on infant mortality?"
Fischer will have a particularly hard sell when he journeys to Jakarta next week to renegotiate a debt relief program. Indonesia, like many third world nations aligned to Washington during the cold war, relied heavily on coaching staff from the WHO, The World Bank, and the IMF. In terms of basic health care, however, they have little to show for their loyalty. Infant mortality in Indonesia is 43 per 1000, and life expectancy is 65 years. Cuba's rates are 7 per 1000 and 76 years, respectively, and have actually improved since the loss of Soviet economic support in 1989.
At a post-game press conference, the CEO's of Merck and Pfizer reacted with disappointment at the Cuba win and vowed to reallocate their resources with a goal of beating Cuba in 2001. "That means no money for marketing high profit 'lifestyle' drugs such as Viagra, Prozac and Ritalin. From now we're in the business of saving and prolonging lives as effectively as possible." said Pfizer's CEO.
The Americans were heartened by other statistics that indicated that the wealthiest 20 per cent of Americans had access to far better health care than the average Cuban. President Clinton stated: "Now we all know that we've got to be patient as we wait for those benefits with trickle down to the rest of us. But I understand the concern many Americans feel that it seems to be taking far too long."
President Clinton added that "There is reason for hope that America will pull ahead, as we still have the ability to prosecute corporations and individuals who violate the blockade and sell medicines to the Communist dictatorship." He pointed to the Torricelli Act and the Helms-Burton act as examples of how bi-partisan efforts can put pressure on the Castro regime. "The Cubans, for example, can't buy the only effective treatment for pediatric leukemia."
The health care conference was the highest rated pay-per-view event since the Tyson-Holyfield fight. The crushing loss was devastating to US fans, who had packed into sports bars across the country. In the final minutes of PAHO's presentation, as the results were read, Fidel Castro further enraged Americans by making the "choke" gesture at President Clinton.
Modern medicine for traditional people, traditional medicine for modern people
In Bali, there are two ways of responding to health problems: traditional Balinese medicine or allopathic "Western" medicine. Both systems co-exist in Bali, and local people will commonly go back and forth between doctors and healers - called Balian or Dukun - in their search for a cure.
Traditional medicine refers to a wide range of techniques and modalities which are described in palm leaf manuscripts called lontar. There is a remarkable array of lontar on a variety of subjects. Some are quite specific and demonstrate a strong understanding of human anatomy - describing, for example, the weight and length of a human intestine. But central to the traditional approach to health is the Balinese belief in a spiritual reason for health disorders. One never simply "gets sick", there is always a niskala, or "unseen" reason behind an illness or accident. Often the "prescription" is mantras and offerings. Even when medicinal herbs are prescribed, the herbs themselves are not considered the cure, but merely a means through which counter-active white magic can enter the body.
Since the arrival of Dutch colonialists, there has been allopathic medicine in Bali. It was not until the early 1900's that Indonesians medical doctors were minted, but the number of Indonesian doctors remains to this day woefully low - only 1 per 120,000. This makes allopathic medicine something of a luxury in Indonesia, and out of reach for many rural and urban Indonesians. The empirical or mechanistic foundations of allopathic medicine run counter to the Balinese propensity to see the body as a spiritual vessel held in balance by complementary forces. What kind of problems arise when a Balinese patient's belief system contrasts so markedly with the scientific approach of allopathic medicine? And what happens when western people, grounded in western empirical thinking, look for a cure from healers whose conception of disease is spiritual in nature?
The Body in Bali.
In the Balinese world view, the human is surrounded on all sides, as well as above and below, by forces held in balance by the cosmic order. To the north, kaja, is Gunung Agung, the sacred mountain. This region is considered positive. The east, kangin is also considered favorably. The South, kelod, and the west, kauh are generally regarded in a negative light. The Gods reside in heaven and the buta kala, "demons", reside under the earth. This basic order repeats itself over and over in Balinese culture - the head is good, the feet are dirty, the right hand is clean, the left is not. A Balinese home is likened to a human body as well, with the head as the family temple, the stomach as the kitchen, the anus as the toilet, and so on. The body is balanced in the center of all these forces, and should one side get too strong, health can break down.
Consistent with this geomancy is the placement of four guardian spirits which guard over your health if you are Balinese. These spirits are called the kanda empat ("Four Brothers" or "Four Sisters"), and they watch over you from the spirit world from the moment of your birth. These spirits have a physical manifestation as well. At birth, they are associated with the placenta, amniotic fluid, blood, and vernix caseosa that are expelled during labor. The placenta, or ari-ari has an important function in helping a Balinese maintain their own health. The ari-ari is buried in the family compound and offerings are made to it. A lamp is burned on that spot for the next 40 days to guard it. A new mother might sprinkle breast milk on the soil near her child's ari-ari to feed the Kanda empat - and the Balinese say it has an added effect of stopping the baby from crying. Throughout life, whenever there is a health issue, offerings will be made to the kanda empat, whose names change over the passage of time. When a Balinese travels abroad he or she may take some soil from the area of the ari-ari with him to maintain that spiritual connection.
The Kanda Empat are associated with parts of the body on a physical level and the greater universe on a macro level. At birth, the Kanda Empat have the names Babu Sugian, Babu Lembaba, Babu Abra and Babu Kekere. They are associated with the amniotic fluid, the blood, the placenta, the umbilical cord, and the directions of north, south, west and east . Later in life the names of the Kanda Empat change, and they are associated with different parts of the body, the heart, the liver, the gall bladder and the kidneys, respectively. When a sick Balinese visits a Balian, the healer will call upon the Kanda Empat, invoking these spirits to aid the patient.
Balian
There are many types of healers in Bali. Balian Usada are learned healers who treat patients using mantras written in the lontar. Balian Pijat or "tukan pijat" are "massage workers" who manipulate muscles and energy with their hands. Balian Taksu go in to trance and, with little prompting, tell a patient what their problem is and how it can be cured.
What happens when a westerner visits a Balian? There are no Kanda Empat, and so there are no spirits to invoke. Bruce Carpenter notes that a comedy of errors may be the result: "If a westerner goes for a healing, and if he doesn't have ancestors in Bali, then any rituals that are performed are basically meaningless as far as the Balinese are concerned. But they are very polite people so when a Westerner comes and smiles and participates they are happy to sprinkle him with holy water. They don't really mind. But they probably think that you are a nut. They don’t really know what he is doing there."
This kind of spiritual tourism presents the danger of turning deeply held religious beliefs into tourist commodities, but few of the healers I spoke to considered it to be a serious problem. As a group they believed that Western people can benefit from traditional healing, even if they were not born into the Balinese cultural context and don't fully understand the esoteric mechanisms behind a healer's practice. They also believe that traditional medicine may be the only answer when a westerner falls victim to black magic, which they insist is not uncommon. Ketut Arsana, a healer in Ubud, recalls a time when tourist was brought to him in the middle of the night, rigid and trembling and covered with a red rash. Arsana recognized immediately that he had been victim of the occult equivalent of a hit and run accident. A spell has been sent by a leyak to hurt someone else and the tourist had been at the wrong place at the wrong time. The desti, or spell, had entered him. Recognizing the symptoms, it was relatively easy for Arsana to release the spell through massage, and the tourist recovered in a matter of hours.
The Medium is the Massage
Most westerners get their first experience of traditional medicine in the form of a Balinese massage. I am not referring to the massages offered on Kuta beach, which have nothing to do with traditional medicine, and rarely deserve to be called massage - but the types of massages offered by healers versed in what is originally an Indian import - the aurivedic tradition. This tradition describes energy channels called nadis. When you are healthy, your nadis are open and prana, or life-force, is allowed to flow. Problems arise when the nadis become blocked. due to imbalance in panca maka buta, the five elements earth, wind, fire, ether, and water, that according to Balinese philosophy, is the stuff from which all things are made. The deep tissue massage that is traditionally performed in Bali is used to break open the blocks one develop in the nadis.
Ketut Arsana opened Bali's first spa, The Bodywork Center, 25 years ago, starting a trend that now seems completely out of control. He is one of the few healers who can articulate his methodology - which he does with great reluctance, because many of his western patients are already too "pandai", or clever, for their own good already. "They are so clever, they are stupid." he laughs. Westerners spend far too much time engaged in intellectual and critical activities that they lose touch with the physical and spiritual aspects of their lives - and the physical health always seems related to spiritual well-being in the Balinese worldview.
According to Ketut Arsana, Westerners experiencing traditional medicine are either very open and accepting - thus easy to treat, or extremely "kaku" - "stiff" both intellectually and physically. I got the sense that he did not want to open the subject of the spiritual dimension of illness to western clients because the amount of explication involved was endless and incomprehensible to someone not born into the Balinese worldview. A common problem with westerners is slipped discs. Arsana says this is a fairly easy condition to treat. Does the patient really need to know that the cure involves releasing blockage in a small nadi connecting the stomach to the lower back, or is it better just to solve the problem? In Arsana's experience it is better to heal the patient: explanations can get in the way.
Some aspects of the healers art are closely held secrets that might cause problems if they were widely known. Many lontar contain the warning "Do Not Disseminate" written on them, making it clear that information in the wrong hands can be dangerous, particularly when it pertains to the world of black magic. A healer is supposed to study diligently under proper supervision so that the syllables of healing mantras eventually enter his body and actually inscribe to regions of the healer's anatomy. These sacred syllables, called Modre, can be invoked and made to vibrate or speak to the equivalent area of a patient's stricken body, which has the effect of releasing the illness. This type of knowledge is a very closely guarded secret among literate usada healers.
Ketut Arsana believes that a healer should immediately know the problem without the patient saying a word. And the patient should not question the reasoning behind a particular treatment because it is disrespectful and counterproductive to the healer and the process. In traditional medicine, a policy of "Don't ask, don't tell" is the norm - quite the opposite of the western ideal of "informed consent".
This cultural norm of "don't ask, don't tell" can confound the application of allopathic medicine in Bali. Many Balinese visit doctors with the same ingrained expectations they used to bring on visits to Balian. A Balinese will never explain to a Balian Taksu why they have come. The Balian is supposed to know the reason intuitively without a word spoken. The unfortunate reality is that some bad Indonesian doctors - doctors who don't question their patients, doctors who make a cursory examination, a quick diagnosis and prescribe a shot of B-12 - may impress a Balinese due to cultural conditioning rather than a good doctor who exhaustively questions a patient. The latter might be regarded at lacking "sakti" for not knowing, intuitively the nature of the illness. A doctor who prides himself on his willingness to spend time with patients, ask them thorough questions on their symptoms, and empower them with vital information, might go unappreciated here.
Dr. Denny Thong is a doctor who is fascinated by the ability of certain balian to diagnose illnesses, particularly mental illnesses such as depression. Thong is intimately involved in the two worlds of health care in Bali. Trained as a psychiatrist, he ran the mental hospital in Bangli for many years. With co-author Bruce Carpenter, Dr. Thong wrote about his experiences in the highly readable book "A Psychiatrist in Paradise". Upon arrival in his new job, he soon learned that standard therapies used in western mental hospitals were wholly inappropriate in the Bali. The simple act of separating a patient from his family and confining him in a cell would have a devastating effect on both the patient and the family. Relatively few patients who were admitted into the hospital ever left - not only because of the stigma attached to mental disease but because of the high cost of the ceremonies that would have to be performed before the patient could be re-admitted into the family compound.
Thong also learned that patients were much happier with the treatment they got in the hands of Balian and there was evidence suggesting that had a far better record in "curing" mental illness that Psychiatrists. One healer in particular, Nyoman Jiwa, seemed to be adept in restoring patients to a more functional state. He did this by simply laying his hands on the patient. If the patient was a victim of black magic, they would feel a strong sensation not unlike an electric current. In acute cases, the pain was almost intolerable, and patient could only stand a few seconds of what appeared to be a gentle touch. After a series of treatments in this manner, the pain would disappear and mental health would be restored.
Intrigued by Jiwa's success, Thong asked him to help at the Bangli mental hospital. Thong created a "Family Clinic" on the hospital grounds. Patients and their families would visit the family clinic before being admitted to the mental hospital. If Jiwa diagnosed a case of black magic, the patient would not enter the hospital itself, and receive treatment in the family clinic in a series of out-patient treatments. By avoiding admitting patients except in extreme cases, the patient remained ritually clean and unstigmatized.
This new system seemed to work far better than the original system. Unfortunately, it attracted attention from the medical establishment in Jakarta. Dr. Thong was accused of promoting backward thinking and unscientific methods. For reasons which were never clear, Thong was transferred to Sulawesi to supervise a mental hospital there. The family clinic was demolished and the old, failed methods were reintroduced to the mental hospital in Bangli by the new director.
The moral of the Bangli experiment is that is that it is only western arrogance to imagine that allopathic medicine is universally appropriate regardless of cultural context. It underscores the necessity for the Balinese to judge for themselves which Western modalities it should import, adopt and embrace, be it Sigmund Freud, fast food, or MTV. The Bangli experiment does not create an optimistic picture. It demonstrates that a particular orthodoxy, when backed by Western power and dominance, can prevail despite evidence that it causes more harm than good. As far as psychiatry in Bali is concerned, Dr. Thong is skeptical but retains his sense of humor. The experience changed his perspective on his own discipline - "I no longer believe in Psychiatry!" he says with a laugh.
The future of traditional medicine
It seems unlikely that traditional medicine as currently practiced in Bali will survive many more generations. The effectiveness of allopathic medicine against what were once fearsome diseases has undermined - rightfully - the value of certain traditional treatments. Many lontar were written for diseases that are no longer a threat - The Usada Kacacar consists of mantras, local pharmacology, and diagnostic tips pertaining to the treatment of smallpox. Smallpox was wiped out by vaccines introduced in the 1920's. Similarly, it doesn't make much sense to consult the Usada Mala for treatment of goiter when modern medicine offers an effective treatment. Leprosy is a condition that, years ago, was the most fearsome disease ever to plague Bali. The Usada Ila (sometimes called Usada Cukil Daki) treats the disease as the worst form of black magic, and requires that those stricken move as far as possible from home. In these cases, the superiority of allopathic medicine over traditional medicine is obvious.
If traditional medicine is destined to die off, one can only hope that allopathic medicine will develop greater sensitivity to the cultural context of Bali and be open to incorporating new (old) ideas. There may be reason for hope in the regard, as recent Western research has actually proven via double blind studies that prayer - both by and for a particular patient - can significantly improve a patient's chances of recovery. In cases where a technique is effective without making empirical sense, the burden should be on modern medicine to study and incorporate it into acceptable practice.
Unfortunately, in politics as well as in the politics of medicine the economically dominant system will survive. Medicine is big business, and there is every indication that the huge gap in health care quality that separates the rich and poor in Indonesia will grow more acute. The problem is not in lack of resources - public health policy in a country like Cuba has been wildly successful, and Cubans now enjoy lower infant mortality rates and live longer than Americans - but it is unlikely that an equitable system of medicine will appear in Indonesia any time soon. The economics of an unequal system, that primarily serves to benefit Western-based pharmaceutical industry, seems to be firmly entrenched. Paradoxically, the high cost of allopathic medicine in Bali may help to keep Balian busy in the short term, since Bali's poor have no other recourse.
Western visitors to Bali, armed with up-to-date information, economic power, critical yet open minds on traditional medicine, and a grounding in empirical science are able to make informed decisions on their health-care options. The Balinese majority, however, are not so lucky. Accurate information is hard to come by, and 32 years of military rule did not generally support the development of critical thinking skills. Pharmaceutical companies take advantage of this and foist the equivalent of snake oil on the general population. The Balinese have little in the way of health care options, and indeed may get the worst of the two worlds.
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